No, no – Moscow has not decided to add a weeklong series of designer shows and runway presentations a la Paris, New York and Milan.
I just returned from spending almost a week in Moscow on business, but commented to a friend before my departure that I was curious to see in the perpetual sub-freezing temperatures how a society’s fashion adapts and could it be done stylistically and without sacrificing its gravitas.
Long story short, I was pleasantly surprised.
Admittedly, we were in one of the more upscale, toursity parts of town for the duration of our trip, so the ushankas and grimy overcoats were not as prevalent. But, there were still a number of highlights that I took from the trip that can give hope to the frosty and fashion-conscious.
1. When dark colors are a must, choose to express yourself through accessories – Dark suits, dark overcoats, dark shoes and dark hats are all necessary when it is in the 20′s everyday, so color is often thrown by the side of the road. But the most stylish Moscovians brightened up their outfits with colorful ties, scarves and pocket sqaures. It was also not odd to see men wearing their favorite gingham shirts in blue, green, purple or even red under their layers. Mixing patterns between shirts and ties didn’t stand out like one would see in the U.S. these days. Their checkered shirts demanded solid ties. When you are covered half the time anyways, there was no need to embellish.
2. Slender still rules – even in the coldest of weather and in the bulkiest of clothes, many locals seemed to make it a priority to keep the shape of their silhouette as true as possible. When discussing suits, pants and shoes, this seemed simple and fuss-free – the suit in Russia has a very European feel to it and fits well. With its modern fit and straight lines, we could easily have been in Paris or Florence. But when adding a large overcoat, I can see where the problems would arise. But Moscow distinctly reminded me of a photo shoot I saw in a recent GQ that featured overcoats modeled by Joshua Jackson of all people. Designers are apparently taking more of an interest in slender, form-fitting coats that still provide outstanding warmth. If you are man enough to go to the Josh Jackson homepage, all of the photos can be seen here. Apparently, some of the important things to consider are coats that don’t go below the knees or that create a flowing effect that can widen the body, as well as slim shoulders – not something that bulks out well past your clothes.
And while I did not pass any on the street, there must be a thriving tailor business to keep these Russian businessmen in their trim suits.
3. Materials and fabrics must de considered – when your city is in a constant state of snow in the air and snow and ice on the ground, the cotton suits and untreated, expensive leather shoes aren’t going to cut it. High-quality wool is the fabric of choice for suits and I spotted more than a few dozen patented leather shoes on men’s feet, apparently sacrificing quality for cost, durability and “lastability.” One slip-up and step in the show could ruin your $600 Bally shoes before you can say “Vy gavareeteh pa anglisky?” (Do you speak English?) And when living in a climate where you can wear your wool suits year-round, embracing the fact that it will keep you warmest becomes very relevant.
4. The “used-to-it” factor – living in Houston, I never experience temperatures as cold as we had in Moscow. So, as I was bundled up in my layers and overcoat and thick scarf to walk to the Red Square, the locals have dealt with this weather their whole lives. It may not seem like it, but this was not an insignificant factor in fashion choices. Many men were tolerating the weather with merely a suit and v-neck sweater combination or a sport-coat and Chesterfield duo. So while this Texan had to wrap his scarf around his face so that his nose didn’t freeze off, the locals simply have decided to not let the cold get the best of them in their fashion sense. Either that or the vodka and Beluga provides all the warmth they need.
So while the Overcoat is so much a part of the lives of Russians, whether sartorially or literally, there is hope and proof that it can be done within the boundaries of haute couture. And much like Akaky Bashmachkin strived to live minimally to afford his new coat, a minimal amount of effort in the coldest of environments can lead to a wealth of frigid fashion sense.
