I don’t think I am exaggerating too much by using the word art to describe the men’s ritual of shaving their face. Considering all the tools that go into the process, the time compared to the rest of men’s typical facial care regimens and how prominently one’s face is displayed (and thus the mistakes one makes shaving), there must be special care and precision put into this routine.
First, let’s start with the tools. What does a man need to arm himself to do battle with his daily stubble? I will tell you what I use, but please feel free to use this advice or look for something else you prefer more.
Razor
At this point, it is a must that men use razors with more than one blade. I still use the original Mach 3 Turbo razor (and my handle is terribly worn down from use at this point) which can be picked up at any grocery or other sundry store for about $9. A lot of people I know use the Quattro razor as well, but I just prefer the Mach 3 with the triple razor strip that has the green lubricator strip that indicates when it needs to be replaced by the color fading.
If you are still using disposable razors of any kind, please cease and desist immediately. There are a number of reasons why: these blades aren’t as durable, it’s better for the environment, and basically it just doesn’t make sense to use a product with a sharp razor whose name inherently implies it should be thrown away.
The latest packages of blades come with five for the Turbo, and run about $13. Depending on frequency, you can probably make these last about three or four weeks, so you are talking about less than a dollar a day for blades that do a phenomenal job.
Shaving cream
Men, it’s time to get rid of the Barbasol and the foamies and embrace something better. Try looking for a gel or another product that is oil-free and that reacts well to your unique face. Personally, I use Clinique Aloe Shave Gel for Men. It is very soft against even days worth of facial hair, and the aloe helps protect against razor burn. This will cost you about $13 and should last a good two months.
In my travel bag, I also have a small tube of Anthony Logisitics shaving cream that costs $10. This is the perfect traveling size and Anthony loads their products full of some great stuff for your skin such as aloe, eucalyptus and vitamins.
One important note in trying out new shaving products is to make sure you find something that is not too thick – something that will not clump up on your face or on your blade when you go over it.
After-shave
I can probably start by saying that if you are using an aftershave that causes your face to burn after you splash it on, it’s not a good thing. Why would you continue to use something on your face that burns it and causes pain? Traditional, grandpa-using, splash-on aftershaves damage the pores of your skin over time and don’t soothe the skin after you have essentially cut off microscopic layers with the razor.
You need something that comforts and soothes the skin and also keeps it hydrated. My preferred choice right now is Kiehl’s Multi-Purpose Facial Formula. This product, at about $22.50 for 4.2 oz, can be used as more than just an aftershave, but also a lotion and rejuvenator as well, which is one of the main reasons I prefer it. It also does a good job of not leaving my face oily when applied.
Most people nowadays champion the cause of having some sunblock in their aftershave, especially if any time will be spent outdoors. I certainly do buy into this idea, thus the only downside to this Kiehls product is that it does not contain any. This one does, however, if you prefer it.
Pre-shave oil
While I do not use this very often, many men use a pre-shave application that “wakens” skin and prepares it for a shave, hopefully preventing irritation. While I personally don’t have one I use and recommend, each of the brands I have listed above carry a pre-shave oil and can be found here, here and here.
Badger brush
Definitely one of my favorite things that I own, I feel like I am preparing for a barbershop shave circa Chicago 1928 every time I pull it out. These can certainly get to be very expensive should you find one with real badger hair, but the one I use is from eShave.com and my wonderful wife bought it for me for just $55.
Using a badger hair brush when applying your shaving cream lifts the hair from the face, exfoliates it and also creates an even distribution of the cream, helping with the clumping problem mentioned a few lines back.
The Process
You will hear a lot of variations to this story, so I will just stick with mine, one that has worked for me for years and surely won’t let you down either.
I tend to only shave in the shower, first of all. The continuous hot water and the steam from the shower opens up your pores and helps prepare the face for shaving. The first step should obviously be to dampen the face well before anything else. If you are not using a pre-shave solution, then put about a quarter- to half-dollar-size portion of the shaving cream in the palm of your hand.
With your other hand, take your badger brush, dampen it and turn it in clockwise and counter-clockwise semi-circles, lathering up the cream on the brush. When it is evenly distributed, begin applying on your face with small, circular movements. Cover all of your neck area, sideburns, chin and above and below the mouth.
When this is done, rinse out the brush and hang it where the hairs can dry for its next use. Make sure your blade has run through some hot water, and then begin making smooth, steady strokes through the cream in the direction of hair growth. Use your other hand to pull your skin and keep it straight – this can help in the tougher, rounded areas.
With a Mach 3 or other multiple-razor blade, you should only really need to do this once. If hair is unusually long and it still feels necessary to repeat, lather up again and redo the shave. You will be able to feel if all the hair has been removed.
I prefer to completely rinse my face out of the shower with cold water. Colder water closes pores and also hydrates the skin in preparation for the aftershave. After lightly drying your face, apply a quarter-size drop of the aftershave to your fingertips and distribute evenly, being sure to work it in to every corner of the places you just finished shaving.
Now, perhaps you understand why I consider it an art-form, what with all that is involved. But after just a couple of times, this routine with similar products will help your face feel fresher and cleaner than it ever has. Your face is the most noticable, unique feature on your body – why not spend the time to take care of it?
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