I may have mentioned this before, but shoes and I don’t always get along. I have an internal battle about my passion for shoes all the time. I’ll tell you why…
When it comes to dress shoes, maybe even more so than any other item in your wardrobe, all of the old adages are correct: “you get what you pay for” and “the better the cost, the better the quality” all adequately describe shoe procurement. When we discussed fabrics, specifically leather, I mentioned that the more you pay for leather shoes, the better the quality of leather you should be receiving. If you want the best shoes around, you are going to be paying the worst (read: highest) prices. You will get a product that, assuming it is properly cared for, will last for years.
The fly in the ointment is that the average man will typically be harder on their shoes than on anything else in their wardrobe. They come in contact with the ground hundreds of times a day, they can get wet, you can scuff them on the curb, they get stepped on, etc. There are a thousand different ways to ruin them, many of which are irreparable.
And on and on the debate rages…..spend the money and in turn risk the shoes? Or save the money and sacrifice on quality and, in many cases, style? Eventually you have to decide on one or the other or go through the agonizing search, as I have recently done, to desperately seek the high-quality dress shoe that can be found on sale or at a price that you feel is reasonable.
Eventually, you will have to make the choice of what dress shoe to purchase. Before you pull out the credit card, I must recommend to you wingtips.
Wingtips are characterized by the design near the toe of the shoe that essentially forms the shape of a W or what can be described as a bird with wings. Typically, there exists a punched pattern along the edges of the W known as “brogueing.”
According to Wikipedia, wingtips (or brogues) come from the Scottish and Irish Gaelic word meaning shoe – fitting since these shoes were first developed in Scotland and Ireland.
I have gone back and forth between wingtips and oxfords or cap-toes, but when I am sporting the wingtips, it seems almost like I have a step up in class. The elegance of the shoe is matched by the precision with which it must be made and stitched – and that is most evident in wingtips.
So where can you find a great pair for a reasonable price? Certainly the expensive labels carry them, such as Ferragamo, Bally’s and Church’s. But what about something more affordable? Let’s say $200 or less? Here is what I found:
At $185, I usually will look for something with a little bit of a narrower shape, but this is a very classic wingtip made of textured leather.
BR also sells a very attractive Salvador Wingtip through their Monogram label at $225 if you don’t mind paying a little bit more (these are the shoes pictured above).
Available through the Dillard’s website for $158, Cole Haan always makes a reliable, lasting, quality shoe – this style available in black. The heel is also not too bulky on these, which is always a plus.
This shoe, available at $168 is advertised as “slightly narrower for a better fit,” so that is a plus. I can’t really personally speak to the quality of shoes at J. Crew, but it seems to be pretty classic.
And finally, my favorite pair of shoes I ever owned was a pair of brown wingtips I bought in Paris from shoe manufacturer Salamander called the Derby Classique.
At the website (in French), the price is listed at 179 Euro which is about $235 today, but I got them for less than $200 at a boutique while I was overseas. You don’t have the option to buy from the website, so be sure to look them up if you are in France anytime soon. The Derby is the fifth shoe on the second row when you go to the link.
Despite wearing these shoes at least 3-4 times per week in all conditions, I had them re-heeled and re-capped, mended some worn leather, and overall took care of them, and they lasted about two years until they were unwearable. But they are still at the bottom of the closet – just in case.
You can find classic wingtips almost anywhere these days, but look for that delicate spot where you can balance some high quality with a reasonable price. It can be done – but it will take some effort.
And remember, like with all else these days, slim and narrow are in. Clunky toes and heels on the shoes simply draw attention to your feet, and we’re not talking about the type of attention you want.
