Archive for July, 2009

Geo. F. Trumper

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Trying to describe what an experience at Trumper’s in London is like is, frankly, quite difficult. When you walk into their original store on Curzon Street in the Mayfair part of town, you are instantly taken back to a time when men had to enter a shop such as this for proper grooming services.

Geo. F. Trumper is London’s oldest and most respected men’s barber and grooming institution, first opening its doors back in the 1850′s. Known for not only grooming services but for its vast inventory of grooming products for skin, hair and face, Trumper’s offers old-world services that are unrivaled at any other barber shop that one could frequent today. A quick check of the website and of their brochure shows that they offer, in addition to haircuts, hair tinting, mustache and beard trimming, shaves, manicures, pedicures, facial cleanses and massages.

When one comes in for one of these services, you are treated to your own individual station with a personal groomer. These stalls are from the original installation of the early 1900′s and feature a comfortable, relaxing chair with shelf upon shelf of the groomer’s favorite products. If privacy is requested, it can certainly be accommodated with drawn curtains.

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They do ask that you call ahead and make reservations. I happened to step into their second store on Jermyn Street on a Wednesday, and the employee happily called their flagship shop to make an appointment for my brother, father and I for shaves on Friday afternoon. The employees could not have been more polite or eager to help and answer all my questions – it was refreshing to have that type of service from someone who was not even getting my business that day.

At the time of our appointment, I asked to go last so I could observe my father and brother and get an outside perspective of what the experience is like.

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In the chair on the right is my father, experiencing his first hot towel-wet shave. His groomer was a man named Gerry who had been providing these services for 43 years – and he was an expert to say the least – so much so that he earned a new returning customer in my father.

As it came to be my turn, I forced myself to remember the experience and the sequence so I could accurately report it. And I couldn’t be happier that I did – because, wow, what  an experience it was.

After some water on my face, my gentleman began with a soothing lotion before applying the first hot towel of the process. After a good two minutes, he removed the hot towel and used a citrus-based pre-shave oil to open up the skin  and soften it before shaving. The shaving cream used was Trumper’s own almond cream product – something I almost bought simply because the smell was so incredible. Next, he used a straight razor blade to expertly remove the stubble I had let grow for three days prior – I did confirm that every razor is replaced after each client to avoid even the potential for transmission of any blood or skin.

Upon completion of the actual shave, he began to touch up my face with a bar that seemed to sting  with each touch of my skin. I asked him what it was and he told me that it was compressed salt. Salt, I learned, acts as a natural disinfectant much like lemon or vinegar. As the salt dries on the skin, it not only cleans it, but tightens the skin and the pores to close them back in. The last few steps were a post-shave lotion, another hot towel and finished off with a moisturizer to cool and heal the shaved area.

Not only was it the greatest shave I have ever had, but it was completely relaxing despite the presence of things like hot towels, straight razors and stinging bars.

A shave with no other services at Trumper’s will run you about 30 pounds, or roughly $48 at the moment (other services run from about 15 to 50 pounds). And while that might seem high, the experience and the attention to detail more than make up for the amount. It’s not like a shave at Trumper’s is not something a man is going to get everyday. It’s a treat – and one that is well worth its price.

And while I did not purchase anything else, I was able to spend a few minutes browsing the hundreds of products that were on display at the front of the store.

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Perhaps sensing my interest, the clerk proceeded to fill a bag for me with samples and brochures and information. Amongst the things I received were various types of shaving creams, skin care products, moisturizers and post-shave products. I look forward to trying them all and then ordering from the catalogue if there is something I can’t live without.

So when I said at the beginning that an experience at Trumper’s is difficult to describe, I truly mean it only one way. Is it possible for the same experience to feel exotic and normal at the same time? Is is possible for it to feel like you are being treated to one of the true hidden secrets for men while at the same time thinking that this is how men should take care of themselves?

Trumper’s makes one feel that way. It makes you remember that there was a time when men used these services out of necessity, not out of novelty.

Trumper’s can be found online by going here. My mother’s blog also chronicled the experience here.

Paris shopping (that’s actually affordable!)

I have been fortunate enough to have a work obligation that has taken me to Paris for about three days, and it has been quite a fun adventure being here for the first time by myself. Looking to fill a couple of days, and having done most of the touristy things in previous trips, I decided to explore the options for affordable shopping for men – something that is not always easy in a city of severe haute couture such as Paris. But, seeing how one of the main goals of this blog is to provide men with quality, affordable style solutions, I am happy to take on the Paris challenge – for my own interest as well as yours.

As with many things, location played a huge part in what I was able to find and what was accessible. I stayed this time at the Hotel de L’Arcade on Rue de L’Arcade near Place de Madeleine and Place de la Concorde. I have stayed here once before, but was not quite able to grasp the epicenter of shopping I was in.

Two streets near my hotel that are typically known for the quality and quantity of shopping are Rue Tronchet and Boulevard Haussman. Most places mentioned today will be on one of those two streets or just off of Place de Madeleine.

Timing was the second factor in my successful trip. I was in Paris from July 9-11 – right in the middle of when EVERY retail store in town has massive end-of-season sales before they bring out the “nouvelle collection” – the new stuff. Every shop has some sign in the window or marquis proclaiming “SOLDES!” or Sale!, and most range from the last week of June to the third week of July.

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Most places run anything from 20-50% off items in the store, so some good deals can be found, despite the fact that most shops are unaffordable for the average buyer to begin with.

The first thing you notice on the intersections of Tronchet and Haussman is that French department stores dominate. All of your Diors, Chanels, Guccis and Burberrys are there as well, but the majority of property is taken up by the multi-floor mammoth stores.

We’ll start with the most famous, Galleries Lafayette. Typically known as a purveyor of high fashion, especially for women, there were deep discounts and plenty to consider on the men’s side.

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There are separate stores for men, women and home with Lafayette, and the women’s store features the classic artistic dome – worth going in to shop just to view that masterpiece. The store for men (homme) features its own line of business wear, much like a Nordstrom does, and all of those items were on sale. I found (and by “found” I mean bought) ties for about 13 Euros, or $20 – they were regularly 40 Euros or more. Their dress shirts ranged from sale prices of about 19 Euros to 40-50 Euros. I spotted other designers such as Alain Figaret, Kenzo and Armani at 50% off as well.

Most of the top designers featured many items on sale, but even 50% off is sometimes not enough to make a dent in a 600 Euro suit. But, with about five floors featuring things like accessories, urban wear, business and shoes, there were still many deals to be found.

A Galleries Lafayette clone down the street is Printemps L’Homme. Much like Lafayette, Printemps showcases separate men’s and women’s stores, and also like Lafayette, features all the expensive items you want.

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Printemps had things laid out a bit differently, however. Many of their best sale items where featured when you walk in the front door, so you don’t have to look very far to find deals on Lacoste or Thomas Pink. Beyond that, I did not find may discernible differences between Printemps and Lafayette – both feature similar fashion with similar floors and similar deals. Still, a few more affordable items could be found by digging deep at Printemps, in my opinion.

Next up are a couple of lower priced department stores, akin to a Macy’s, for a local comparison. C&A is a much more affordable alternative to the previous stores mentioned. You are not going to find Hermes and Dolce & Gabbana at C&A, but plenty of lower-end European manufacturers who have quality clothing (especially in the way they fit) are sold there.

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C&A was started over 100 years ago by two brothers, and although it has had some rough times financially lately, it is still a staple all over Europe. I was able to find a belt I had been looking for from this store for about 15 Euro. Probably the best overall prices were at C&A when considering the sales in each store.

A retail outlet I had never heard of before caught my eye as my day was almost over – a store called Madelios. The slogan for this one was most interesting.

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Basically, “Le Grand Magasin Pour Hommes” means The Big Store For Men. Madelios seemed to be like a large conglomeration of many men’s stores all in one place – with the prices and quality falling somewhere in the middle of Lafayette and C&A – but everything seemed to be disjointed here. No real rhyme or reason in how it was laid out. I didn’t find anything here I couldn’t live without.

Speaking of low-priced men’s stores, I would be remiss to not mention one of my favorites, H&M.

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I know there is nothing earth-shattering about H&M, and that everyone knows about it, but since there is STILL not one in the city where I live – only the third-largest city in America – I continue to have to visit them when I travel to other locations.

This one on Boulevard Haussman is not the best one for men (there is a bigger one in another part of town), but I did find a great purple tie on super-sale for 5 Euro.

On my way back to the hotel, I actually ran across a store I have grown to love – Salamander shoes. If you remember, I discussed Salamander when I wrote a post about wingtips and how I loved the ones I bought there in 2007. Fond memories, I guess, but it was good to discover how close it was to where I was staying.

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Shoes are always fun to browse in a city like Paris. There is something about the way they are displayed and how they all look lined up next to each other in the window that just makes you want to purchase them.

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And yes, those shoes are all on sale – you may notice some of the “Super Prix,” or Super Price signs on shoes thay say 119 Euro or 129 Euro. Yes, that’s more than $150, but it’s just what you are going to pay in Paris for dress shoes. Be prepared. But also notice how narrow these shoes are and how you can’t find a bulky or clunky one in the bunch – I love it.

One disappointing part of the exploration came when I ran across this on a street corner:

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Uniqlo is a Japanese clothing line that I was recently turned onto when GQ highlighted some of their suits that were very reasonably priced. You can’t find them at all in the U.S. (although you can order Uniqlo online), and it looks like I missed the Paris store on Haussman by a few months, as the signs all say that the shop will open fall of 2009.

Otherwise, however, I would have to call my two-day excursion a success. I found some stores I am sure to frequent when I come back, and found deals that would not otherwise had been offered had I been there at a different time of the year.

If you’re ever in Paris and can’t seem to find anything but the out-of-this-world boutiques, try Tronchet and Haussman – you’ll do much better.

The style of Matt Lauer

The Today Show on NBC had an interesting piece the morning of June 18 – on the fabulous subject of ties. “How appropriate!” you must be thinking, seeing how it was three days away from Father’s day and ties are the paragon of male-holiday gift giving. And yes, that was the reason for the bit, but they had a unique angle to the piece as they focused on the reemergence of the tie as well as the tie collections and tie thoughts of two of the network’s most familiar faces: Matt Lauer and Brian Williams.

Both did a little ribbing of the other and of Al Roker, the host of the piece, and they posted extended video of the interviews online, breaking it up into specific pieces for Williams and Lauer. The piece that aired on TV is found here:

http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/26184891/vp/31423437#31423437

While the full video for Lauer can be found here:

http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/26184891/vp/31423437#31413418

All joking aside, Matt Lauer has become a fashion icon of sorts for many men in this country. Personally, I sport a similar hairstyle and quite enjoy his daily sartorial choices. I, however, never did pick up on the fact that his ties “always have some blue” in them.

Another interesting tidbit from the first piece is the interview with Adam Rappaport of GQ. When discussing Lauer, he comments that the Today Show host is neither fashion-forward or conservative, but rather covers himself like a “well-dressed European businessman.”

So at the urging of my wife and mother, and to satisfy my own curiosity, let’s dissect Lauer’s style at work and outside the office. Is he not fashion forward? Is he not conservative? Is he a European businessman? We’ll see.

Let’s start with his typical office wear – the suits. Suits are his uniform and it’s only on rare occasions that he has to dress like this:

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I have been doing some research lately (i.e. watching some TV in the morning) and have discovered that Lauer is predominantly going to wear a suit that is a shade of grey. They trend darker in the NYC fall and winter and much lighter in the summer, but grey with some blue in the shirt and/or tie is a safe bet. Let’s start with this one:

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Classic – that’s the word to describe this picture. A medium-shade of grey that truly could be worn year-round with the trendy and popular light blue shirt and solid navy tie. This is a suit/shirt combo you will see Lauer wearing on air as the light blue is best for TV lights instead of a white shirt.

But in this picture, Rappaport nails the description of being neither fashion forward or conservative. He is not wearing your traditional navy suit-white shirt-red tie presidential attire, but he is also not attempting the super-skinny tie or spread Windsor collar either. Notice the detail of the tie and lapel of the jacket being about the same width; that’s the sign you are dealing with someone savvy and sartorial.

This suit will work in 1959 and 2059 as well as it does in 2009.

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Here is a suit for the colder months – a darker grey pinstripe, with an off-white or possibly very light blue shirt. A sign that the suit fits well is that one can tell that Lauer still can be comfortable despite sitting down, cross-legged, and arms stretched out.

Details are important here as well. The perfect dimple in the tie, just enough sleeve poking out from the jacket, and also displaying what is slowly become his trademark; the JFK-style white pocket square with only the simple, straight line of linen showing.

The tie gives this suit a modern look, but tell me you can’t see this same suit on Cary Grant circa 1950.

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Again, the grey suit – but clearly wearing it out of the office this time. You can learn a lot from the little piece of this ensemble we can see.  What can seem to be a very straight-laced, basic suit – the grey suit with white shirt – can always be dapper-ed up a little bit with some original flair or design in the tie, a man’s one true blank canvas with which to work.

Nothing surprising or revolutionary here – the straight point collar, the exaggerated pin-dot look – all modern in style, but classic enough to pass the test of time.

In the Today Show and in the interviews above with Lauer, it becomes clear that suits are not jut a necessity for him, but rather a comfort zone. He has to know he looks good in them, so in turn, he takes pride in creating and refining his look in suits. And don’t be fooled, his look is not all the work of one of the show’s producers or designers – it’s his own.

Now for some more casual wear, here are some examples:

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Interesting outfit here in what is obviously a candid photo of Lauer. I am amazed at all the different shades that are in play here, yet they all seem to work, drawn together by an unconventional yet stylish pair of light brown cap-toes.

This does remind me of Europe what with the thick scarf, slim pants and sweater. On what is probably a cold spring night, Lauer certainly realizes bundling up doesn’t mean dressing down.

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In what was probably not his proudest moment, Lauer was injured a few months ago, separating his shoulder swerving to avoid a deer on his bike in Central Park. But despite donning a sling for a weeks, he manages to still define casual-cool.

I have seen Lauer in this double-zip cardigan on multiple occasions. He always seems to match it with a dress shirt and jeans – all very clean colors and straight lines that carry a French/Italian feel to it as well. You can tell the jeans are well-fitting and not baggy or sagging – an important lesson for today’s man.

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For what looks like a night out, Lauer chooses the dressier casual approach, with basic sport coat, crisp white shirt and flat-front dress pants. Again, muted colors, nothing flashy, clothes that fit appropriately, and making simple things work to look classic – notice a pattern here?

It’s funny how Lauer uses the white pocket square in this outfit. Where we discussed above how he chooses almost daily to show the small, straight line with his suits on the air, he decides in this picture to go with the more laissez-faire approach, with the “give it a tuck and go” toss into the pocket. It’s almost like he uses the white pocket square to help define what he is doing – saying I know how to separate work and play.

Other things I like here: the matching of the belt and shoes – always a subtle detail, the open jacket – gives off an air of casualness, and the orange cell phone cover – just for it being a little funky.

So the final verdict? Simple colors, clothes that fit to the body, attention to details, and a touch of modernity? All these things shout out European everyday couture, so I can’t help but agree with Adam Rappaport.

Lauer has style worth emulating, style that is admittedly his own.