Archive for August, 2009

Save Jermyn Street!

I was recently emailed an article from the London Evening Standard that discusses a 50 million pound plan to demolish and remodel eight buildings in London’s historic West End, an area that includes the famed men’s shopping area of Jermyn Street. In danger of losing their stores in this remodeling effort, amongst others, are Herbie Frogg, Bates and recently discussed Trumper’s (not the original, but their second shop).

Having just visited London and shopped on this street, I would call this nothing short of a tragedy for the sartorially-minded male. So much history and craftsmanship reside on these few blocks.

Jermyn Street was originally named so after Henry Jermyn, 1st Earl of St. Albans, and has been peddling fine men’s clothing – particularly shirts (Savile Row is to suits as Jermyn Street is to shirts) – since the middle of the 18th century. Keep reading to find out a little bit more that I learned while I was there…

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Shortly after entering Jermyn Street, you are greeted by Beau Brummell, a 19th century gentleman who apparently defined elegance and style during his business around town. He stands guard of the street with the following quote on his plaque:

“To be truly elegant, one should not be noticed.”

I did manage to quickly visit each and every store on the block, but in sticking with tradition on this blog, have decided to highlight the most affordable of the lot.

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T.M. Lewin began on Jermyn Street in 1898 and has been a staple there since, despite expanding to more than 60 stores across the UK. I found TM Lewin to be the most affordable of the shops I visited, and was so without sacrificing fit and modernity. I ended up buying two shirts, two ties and a suit at this store before it was all said and done. Their clothes, especially the slim cut dress shirts, embody English tailoring and the pocket-pleasing prices were certainly welcome on an otherwise expensive street.

They support a vast website for men and women – and you can find it here.

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Charles Tyrwhitt is the new kid on the block on Jermyn Street. This shirt and suit retailer was only founded in 1986 by Nicholas Charles Tyrwhitt Wheeler to become a mass-producer of men’s and women’s shirts. Their prices are also on the reasonable side, especially during their annual end-of-range sale where I found the perfect blue and white striped, french-cuffed shirt I had been searching for all week for a mere 24 pounds.

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This particular shirt is from their slim fit line. I have owned a couple of their traditional cuts and do find them to be very “American” in that regard – much more baggy and flowing. Whatever style and collar you prefer can be found at their website.

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Another shirt retailer that began as a Jermyn Street staple and has since advanced and expanded globally is Thomas Pink. Slightly more expensive, but with superior selection, fit and quality, the Pink experience is something to behold. They pride themselves on service and catering to the customer, providing them with whatever they need.

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

This couldn’t be more true than in the example of their White Shirt bar, located at the Jermyn Street shop. A customer has dozens of choices for their made-to-order white dress shirt such as cuff, collar, fit, buttons, tabs, and a plethora of other decisions. Their sales representatives are happy to spend as long as it takes to find the perfect white shirt for you – and then you are expected to buy, buy, buy.

Visit the Thomas Pink website for more information.

Photo courtesy of Hawes and Curtis

Photo courtesy of Hawes and Curtis

Another imminently affordable shop along the route is Hawes & Curtis. H&C  was established in 1913 by two friends with a mission of providing quality products while also seeking out the opinion of customers to help define the inventory and style of shirt. They boast the Prince of Wales on their client roster and have also significantly expanded throughout the UK.

Hawes & Curtis have a useful and substantial web presence here.

Other famous shirt-makers and purveyors include the pricier, but classic and timeless Turnbull and Asser;

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

As well as Hilditch & Key.

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

Quickly, Jermyn Street became one of my favorite places to browse, window shop and daydream. I visited the short little road at least three times on my trip, finding myself with each subsequent visit wishing more and more I could live near such a treasure chest of men’s fashion.

If some of it is to be remodeled and destroyed in the process, it will be devastating to those who see value in the historical precedence of elegance. These places for men are few and far between, but Jermyn Street certainly tops the list. Visit it when you can.

For more information on Jermyn Street, visit the street’s Association web page.

Summer wedding

How I wish I could go an east-coast summer wedding and be surrounded by the experience Adam Rappaport writes about in this GQ blog:

See the post here.

I have the seersucker suit, I have the bowties, I have the linen and the loafers. Someone who knows me on the east coast and who is getting married when the weather is warm, please send me an invite!!!

Books

If there is another passion I have that can rival style, it would be a good book. So, I thought “why not combine the two?!” To that end, I have added a page at the top of this blog with links to books I recommend about style, about dress and about being a gentleman.

Some of these I have own, some of them I have just flipped through, while still others have been recommended to me. I have a good list started, and will continue to update as I come across great titles.

If you have one you recommend, please let me know so I can share it.

The direct link is http://mensstylerevival.com/books.

Pant length

Quick one today, as I am always happy to oblige when someone asks me a question or seeks my opinion about something.

The question of appropriate length for men’s pants came up at work (I have no idea how or why), so I thought I would illustrate my opinion through written word and, hopefully, some good pictures.

When discussing length of pants, I truly believe in the same two rules whether I am covered in dress pants, jeans or chinos. These two guidelines can help in assuring pants are never too long or, perhaps worse, too short.

1. Pant legs should be straight through the leg and only “break” once above the shoe, no more than about an inch and a half. Here is what I mean:

Picture from Saksfifthavenue.com

Picture from Saksfifthavenue.com

Notice the “break” about an inch and a half above the right foot. There is no bunching at the bottom and the pants are not folding over the shoes. It stops at just the right place, about halfway down the laces.

2. Typically, I like the back of my pants to stop just above the heel of my shoe. This guarantees that I will not be stepping on them on the back side, and assists in the proper length in the front.

Picture from bananarepublic.com

Picture from bananarepublic.com

These are about a quarter to a half inch above the heel, which is just about right.

And as you might have noticed, slim dress pants add to the perception that they fit well. Slimmer pants don’t give off the impression of bagginess and bunchiness like looser fitting pants can.  Ususally, the same holds true for jeans and chinos, but the issue often with those two types of pants is that they are typically designed and made baggier and looser to provide comfort in a versatile pant.

Affordable options I recommend at the moment are the Gap 1969 Authentic fit jeans and J. Crew’s slim-fit broken-in chino.