Archive for the 'Finds' Category

Save Jermyn Street!

I was recently emailed an article from the London Evening Standard that discusses a 50 million pound plan to demolish and remodel eight buildings in London’s historic West End, an area that includes the famed men’s shopping area of Jermyn Street. In danger of losing their stores in this remodeling effort, amongst others, are Herbie Frogg, Bates and recently discussed Trumper’s (not the original, but their second shop).

Having just visited London and shopped on this street, I would call this nothing short of a tragedy for the sartorially-minded male. So much history and craftsmanship reside on these few blocks.

Jermyn Street was originally named so after Henry Jermyn, 1st Earl of St. Albans, and has been peddling fine men’s clothing – particularly shirts (Savile Row is to suits as Jermyn Street is to shirts) – since the middle of the 18th century. Keep reading to find out a little bit more that I learned while I was there…

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Shortly after entering Jermyn Street, you are greeted by Beau Brummell, a 19th century gentleman who apparently defined elegance and style during his business around town. He stands guard of the street with the following quote on his plaque:

“To be truly elegant, one should not be noticed.”

I did manage to quickly visit each and every store on the block, but in sticking with tradition on this blog, have decided to highlight the most affordable of the lot.

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T.M. Lewin began on Jermyn Street in 1898 and has been a staple there since, despite expanding to more than 60 stores across the UK. I found TM Lewin to be the most affordable of the shops I visited, and was so without sacrificing fit and modernity. I ended up buying two shirts, two ties and a suit at this store before it was all said and done. Their clothes, especially the slim cut dress shirts, embody English tailoring and the pocket-pleasing prices were certainly welcome on an otherwise expensive street.

They support a vast website for men and women – and you can find it here.

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Charles Tyrwhitt is the new kid on the block on Jermyn Street. This shirt and suit retailer was only founded in 1986 by Nicholas Charles Tyrwhitt Wheeler to become a mass-producer of men’s and women’s shirts. Their prices are also on the reasonable side, especially during their annual end-of-range sale where I found the perfect blue and white striped, french-cuffed shirt I had been searching for all week for a mere 24 pounds.

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This particular shirt is from their slim fit line. I have owned a couple of their traditional cuts and do find them to be very “American” in that regard – much more baggy and flowing. Whatever style and collar you prefer can be found at their website.

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Another shirt retailer that began as a Jermyn Street staple and has since advanced and expanded globally is Thomas Pink. Slightly more expensive, but with superior selection, fit and quality, the Pink experience is something to behold. They pride themselves on service and catering to the customer, providing them with whatever they need.

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

This couldn’t be more true than in the example of their White Shirt bar, located at the Jermyn Street shop. A customer has dozens of choices for their made-to-order white dress shirt such as cuff, collar, fit, buttons, tabs, and a plethora of other decisions. Their sales representatives are happy to spend as long as it takes to find the perfect white shirt for you – and then you are expected to buy, buy, buy.

Visit the Thomas Pink website for more information.

Photo courtesy of Hawes and Curtis

Photo courtesy of Hawes and Curtis

Another imminently affordable shop along the route is Hawes & Curtis. H&C  was established in 1913 by two friends with a mission of providing quality products while also seeking out the opinion of customers to help define the inventory and style of shirt. They boast the Prince of Wales on their client roster and have also significantly expanded throughout the UK.

Hawes & Curtis have a useful and substantial web presence here.

Other famous shirt-makers and purveyors include the pricier, but classic and timeless Turnbull and Asser;

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

As well as Hilditch & Key.

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

Quickly, Jermyn Street became one of my favorite places to browse, window shop and daydream. I visited the short little road at least three times on my trip, finding myself with each subsequent visit wishing more and more I could live near such a treasure chest of men’s fashion.

If some of it is to be remodeled and destroyed in the process, it will be devastating to those who see value in the historical precedence of elegance. These places for men are few and far between, but Jermyn Street certainly tops the list. Visit it when you can.

For more information on Jermyn Street, visit the street’s Association web page.

Books

If there is another passion I have that can rival style, it would be a good book. So, I thought “why not combine the two?!” To that end, I have added a page at the top of this blog with links to books I recommend about style, about dress and about being a gentleman.

Some of these I have own, some of them I have just flipped through, while still others have been recommended to me. I have a good list started, and will continue to update as I come across great titles.

If you have one you recommend, please let me know so I can share it.

The direct link is http://mensstylerevival.com/books.

Geo. F. Trumper

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Trying to describe what an experience at Trumper’s in London is like is, frankly, quite difficult. When you walk into their original store on Curzon Street in the Mayfair part of town, you are instantly taken back to a time when men had to enter a shop such as this for proper grooming services.

Geo. F. Trumper is London’s oldest and most respected men’s barber and grooming institution, first opening its doors back in the 1850′s. Known for not only grooming services but for its vast inventory of grooming products for skin, hair and face, Trumper’s offers old-world services that are unrivaled at any other barber shop that one could frequent today. A quick check of the website and of their brochure shows that they offer, in addition to haircuts, hair tinting, mustache and beard trimming, shaves, manicures, pedicures, facial cleanses and massages.

When one comes in for one of these services, you are treated to your own individual station with a personal groomer. These stalls are from the original installation of the early 1900′s and feature a comfortable, relaxing chair with shelf upon shelf of the groomer’s favorite products. If privacy is requested, it can certainly be accommodated with drawn curtains.

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They do ask that you call ahead and make reservations. I happened to step into their second store on Jermyn Street on a Wednesday, and the employee happily called their flagship shop to make an appointment for my brother, father and I for shaves on Friday afternoon. The employees could not have been more polite or eager to help and answer all my questions – it was refreshing to have that type of service from someone who was not even getting my business that day.

At the time of our appointment, I asked to go last so I could observe my father and brother and get an outside perspective of what the experience is like.

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In the chair on the right is my father, experiencing his first hot towel-wet shave. His groomer was a man named Gerry who had been providing these services for 43 years – and he was an expert to say the least – so much so that he earned a new returning customer in my father.

As it came to be my turn, I forced myself to remember the experience and the sequence so I could accurately report it. And I couldn’t be happier that I did – because, wow, what  an experience it was.

After some water on my face, my gentleman began with a soothing lotion before applying the first hot towel of the process. After a good two minutes, he removed the hot towel and used a citrus-based pre-shave oil to open up the skin  and soften it before shaving. The shaving cream used was Trumper’s own almond cream product – something I almost bought simply because the smell was so incredible. Next, he used a straight razor blade to expertly remove the stubble I had let grow for three days prior – I did confirm that every razor is replaced after each client to avoid even the potential for transmission of any blood or skin.

Upon completion of the actual shave, he began to touch up my face with a bar that seemed to sting  with each touch of my skin. I asked him what it was and he told me that it was compressed salt. Salt, I learned, acts as a natural disinfectant much like lemon or vinegar. As the salt dries on the skin, it not only cleans it, but tightens the skin and the pores to close them back in. The last few steps were a post-shave lotion, another hot towel and finished off with a moisturizer to cool and heal the shaved area.

Not only was it the greatest shave I have ever had, but it was completely relaxing despite the presence of things like hot towels, straight razors and stinging bars.

A shave with no other services at Trumper’s will run you about 30 pounds, or roughly $48 at the moment (other services run from about 15 to 50 pounds). And while that might seem high, the experience and the attention to detail more than make up for the amount. It’s not like a shave at Trumper’s is not something a man is going to get everyday. It’s a treat – and one that is well worth its price.

And while I did not purchase anything else, I was able to spend a few minutes browsing the hundreds of products that were on display at the front of the store.

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Perhaps sensing my interest, the clerk proceeded to fill a bag for me with samples and brochures and information. Amongst the things I received were various types of shaving creams, skin care products, moisturizers and post-shave products. I look forward to trying them all and then ordering from the catalogue if there is something I can’t live without.

So when I said at the beginning that an experience at Trumper’s is difficult to describe, I truly mean it only one way. Is it possible for the same experience to feel exotic and normal at the same time? Is is possible for it to feel like you are being treated to one of the true hidden secrets for men while at the same time thinking that this is how men should take care of themselves?

Trumper’s makes one feel that way. It makes you remember that there was a time when men used these services out of necessity, not out of novelty.

Trumper’s can be found online by going here. My mother’s blog also chronicled the experience here.

Paris shopping (that’s actually affordable!)

I have been fortunate enough to have a work obligation that has taken me to Paris for about three days, and it has been quite a fun adventure being here for the first time by myself. Looking to fill a couple of days, and having done most of the touristy things in previous trips, I decided to explore the options for affordable shopping for men – something that is not always easy in a city of severe haute couture such as Paris. But, seeing how one of the main goals of this blog is to provide men with quality, affordable style solutions, I am happy to take on the Paris challenge – for my own interest as well as yours.

As with many things, location played a huge part in what I was able to find and what was accessible. I stayed this time at the Hotel de L’Arcade on Rue de L’Arcade near Place de Madeleine and Place de la Concorde. I have stayed here once before, but was not quite able to grasp the epicenter of shopping I was in.

Two streets near my hotel that are typically known for the quality and quantity of shopping are Rue Tronchet and Boulevard Haussman. Most places mentioned today will be on one of those two streets or just off of Place de Madeleine.

Timing was the second factor in my successful trip. I was in Paris from July 9-11 – right in the middle of when EVERY retail store in town has massive end-of-season sales before they bring out the “nouvelle collection” – the new stuff. Every shop has some sign in the window or marquis proclaiming “SOLDES!” or Sale!, and most range from the last week of June to the third week of July.

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Most places run anything from 20-50% off items in the store, so some good deals can be found, despite the fact that most shops are unaffordable for the average buyer to begin with.

The first thing you notice on the intersections of Tronchet and Haussman is that French department stores dominate. All of your Diors, Chanels, Guccis and Burberrys are there as well, but the majority of property is taken up by the multi-floor mammoth stores.

We’ll start with the most famous, Galleries Lafayette. Typically known as a purveyor of high fashion, especially for women, there were deep discounts and plenty to consider on the men’s side.

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There are separate stores for men, women and home with Lafayette, and the women’s store features the classic artistic dome – worth going in to shop just to view that masterpiece. The store for men (homme) features its own line of business wear, much like a Nordstrom does, and all of those items were on sale. I found (and by “found” I mean bought) ties for about 13 Euros, or $20 – they were regularly 40 Euros or more. Their dress shirts ranged from sale prices of about 19 Euros to 40-50 Euros. I spotted other designers such as Alain Figaret, Kenzo and Armani at 50% off as well.

Most of the top designers featured many items on sale, but even 50% off is sometimes not enough to make a dent in a 600 Euro suit. But, with about five floors featuring things like accessories, urban wear, business and shoes, there were still many deals to be found.

A Galleries Lafayette clone down the street is Printemps L’Homme. Much like Lafayette, Printemps showcases separate men’s and women’s stores, and also like Lafayette, features all the expensive items you want.

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Printemps had things laid out a bit differently, however. Many of their best sale items where featured when you walk in the front door, so you don’t have to look very far to find deals on Lacoste or Thomas Pink. Beyond that, I did not find may discernible differences between Printemps and Lafayette – both feature similar fashion with similar floors and similar deals. Still, a few more affordable items could be found by digging deep at Printemps, in my opinion.

Next up are a couple of lower priced department stores, akin to a Macy’s, for a local comparison. C&A is a much more affordable alternative to the previous stores mentioned. You are not going to find Hermes and Dolce & Gabbana at C&A, but plenty of lower-end European manufacturers who have quality clothing (especially in the way they fit) are sold there.

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C&A was started over 100 years ago by two brothers, and although it has had some rough times financially lately, it is still a staple all over Europe. I was able to find a belt I had been looking for from this store for about 15 Euro. Probably the best overall prices were at C&A when considering the sales in each store.

A retail outlet I had never heard of before caught my eye as my day was almost over – a store called Madelios. The slogan for this one was most interesting.

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Basically, “Le Grand Magasin Pour Hommes” means The Big Store For Men. Madelios seemed to be like a large conglomeration of many men’s stores all in one place – with the prices and quality falling somewhere in the middle of Lafayette and C&A – but everything seemed to be disjointed here. No real rhyme or reason in how it was laid out. I didn’t find anything here I couldn’t live without.

Speaking of low-priced men’s stores, I would be remiss to not mention one of my favorites, H&M.

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I know there is nothing earth-shattering about H&M, and that everyone knows about it, but since there is STILL not one in the city where I live – only the third-largest city in America – I continue to have to visit them when I travel to other locations.

This one on Boulevard Haussman is not the best one for men (there is a bigger one in another part of town), but I did find a great purple tie on super-sale for 5 Euro.

On my way back to the hotel, I actually ran across a store I have grown to love – Salamander shoes. If you remember, I discussed Salamander when I wrote a post about wingtips and how I loved the ones I bought there in 2007. Fond memories, I guess, but it was good to discover how close it was to where I was staying.

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Shoes are always fun to browse in a city like Paris. There is something about the way they are displayed and how they all look lined up next to each other in the window that just makes you want to purchase them.

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And yes, those shoes are all on sale – you may notice some of the “Super Prix,” or Super Price signs on shoes thay say 119 Euro or 129 Euro. Yes, that’s more than $150, but it’s just what you are going to pay in Paris for dress shoes. Be prepared. But also notice how narrow these shoes are and how you can’t find a bulky or clunky one in the bunch – I love it.

One disappointing part of the exploration came when I ran across this on a street corner:

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Uniqlo is a Japanese clothing line that I was recently turned onto when GQ highlighted some of their suits that were very reasonably priced. You can’t find them at all in the U.S. (although you can order Uniqlo online), and it looks like I missed the Paris store on Haussman by a few months, as the signs all say that the shop will open fall of 2009.

Otherwise, however, I would have to call my two-day excursion a success. I found some stores I am sure to frequent when I come back, and found deals that would not otherwise had been offered had I been there at a different time of the year.

If you’re ever in Paris and can’t seem to find anything but the out-of-this-world boutiques, try Tronchet and Haussman – you’ll do much better.

Sine Die

Being a Texan (and still living here), you have to look long and hard for fashion innovators or designers that can trace their roots back to the Lone Star State. You have the incredible Tom Ford, who was born in Austin and raised in Houston; and then you have Chloe Dao, winner of Project Runway season 2, who has her flagship boutique, Lot 8, about five minutes from where I work.

And that’s about it.

So whenever I see some style worth noting originating from my state, it always excites me. Knowing that much, when a colleague introduced me to a site called Sine Die, I was instantly intrigued.

Sine Die, Latin for “without another day,” is the phrase that signifies the adjournment of a regularly-convened or special session in the state legislature, and has been a fixture in Austin jargon for years. The company’s founder, employed for years on the Capitol, took the phrase and combined it with the cannon from the Gonzales Flag to create a logo that adequately symbolizes the past and present Texas; a beginning and end, if you will – the cannon representing the genesis of the State of Texas and Sine Die representing the end of a tireless work session.

As of this writing, Sine Die is solely a purveyor of ties, although their website claims that it is a “homegrown clothing company.” Perhaps that can be read as a sign of planned expansion or growth.

The ties strike my fancy for a couple reason:

One – they seem to follow the pattern and fit the mold of your traditional Hermes or Ferragamo ties, with the unique color/pattern combination. But instead of fluffy bunnies or dinosaurs like you see in the links above, the symbols on the Sine Die ties represent something unique or experiential about Texas such as oil gushers, cannons and even kolaches – a tribute to the Czech infusion of the 19th century.

The kolache tie

The kolache tie

Second – while your Hermes and Ferragamo ties run about $160-$170, the Sine Die ties are less than half of that at $68 per. Granted, the more expensive labels are importing handmade, Italian, silk twill products; the version on Sine Die’s website states that these are also handmade from silk, so you will not be sacrificing much in quality – just that you will not be able to say that your tie’s silk is from the mills in northern Italy. But how often does that really come up in conversation?

Currently, the ties can be ordered from the website or, apparently, bought at a shop called Lone Star Legacies in Austin. Hopefully other locations will pick them up soon as well.

And in case you are thinking, “isn’t this the type of thing I will find one day hanging in a gift shop at the airport with other bits of Texas frippery?” My answer is, I don’t think so. To announce your product claiming quality, style and a laissez-faire (said with a Texas accent) attitude means you have greater things in mind.

I showed these to my father last night, and his response was to tell me he thought he was going to go order about five of them. Some for himself, and some as gifts. While I am not saying you need to go buy five, give one a try, and let me know what you think.

UPDATE: My father did end up buying two of the ties and I had a chance to inspect them the other day. As expected, it is a lower quality grade of slik than, say, your Hermes or Ferragamo, but the tie itself is a good medium width, it seems durable, and the design in real life (not in pictures) work well with the colors. So far I give it a thumbs up.