Archive for the 'Grooming' Category

Geo. F. Trumper

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Trying to describe what an experience at Trumper’s in London is like is, frankly, quite difficult. When you walk into their original store on Curzon Street in the Mayfair part of town, you are instantly taken back to a time when men had to enter a shop such as this for proper grooming services.

Geo. F. Trumper is London’s oldest and most respected men’s barber and grooming institution, first opening its doors back in the 1850′s. Known for not only grooming services but for its vast inventory of grooming products for skin, hair and face, Trumper’s offers old-world services that are unrivaled at any other barber shop that one could frequent today. A quick check of the website and of their brochure shows that they offer, in addition to haircuts, hair tinting, mustache and beard trimming, shaves, manicures, pedicures, facial cleanses and massages.

When one comes in for one of these services, you are treated to your own individual station with a personal groomer. These stalls are from the original installation of the early 1900′s and feature a comfortable, relaxing chair with shelf upon shelf of the groomer’s favorite products. If privacy is requested, it can certainly be accommodated with drawn curtains.

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They do ask that you call ahead and make reservations. I happened to step into their second store on Jermyn Street on a Wednesday, and the employee happily called their flagship shop to make an appointment for my brother, father and I for shaves on Friday afternoon. The employees could not have been more polite or eager to help and answer all my questions – it was refreshing to have that type of service from someone who was not even getting my business that day.

At the time of our appointment, I asked to go last so I could observe my father and brother and get an outside perspective of what the experience is like.

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In the chair on the right is my father, experiencing his first hot towel-wet shave. His groomer was a man named Gerry who had been providing these services for 43 years – and he was an expert to say the least – so much so that he earned a new returning customer in my father.

As it came to be my turn, I forced myself to remember the experience and the sequence so I could accurately report it. And I couldn’t be happier that I did – because, wow, what  an experience it was.

After some water on my face, my gentleman began with a soothing lotion before applying the first hot towel of the process. After a good two minutes, he removed the hot towel and used a citrus-based pre-shave oil to open up the skin  and soften it before shaving. The shaving cream used was Trumper’s own almond cream product – something I almost bought simply because the smell was so incredible. Next, he used a straight razor blade to expertly remove the stubble I had let grow for three days prior – I did confirm that every razor is replaced after each client to avoid even the potential for transmission of any blood or skin.

Upon completion of the actual shave, he began to touch up my face with a bar that seemed to sting  with each touch of my skin. I asked him what it was and he told me that it was compressed salt. Salt, I learned, acts as a natural disinfectant much like lemon or vinegar. As the salt dries on the skin, it not only cleans it, but tightens the skin and the pores to close them back in. The last few steps were a post-shave lotion, another hot towel and finished off with a moisturizer to cool and heal the shaved area.

Not only was it the greatest shave I have ever had, but it was completely relaxing despite the presence of things like hot towels, straight razors and stinging bars.

A shave with no other services at Trumper’s will run you about 30 pounds, or roughly $48 at the moment (other services run from about 15 to 50 pounds). And while that might seem high, the experience and the attention to detail more than make up for the amount. It’s not like a shave at Trumper’s is not something a man is going to get everyday. It’s a treat – and one that is well worth its price.

And while I did not purchase anything else, I was able to spend a few minutes browsing the hundreds of products that were on display at the front of the store.

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Perhaps sensing my interest, the clerk proceeded to fill a bag for me with samples and brochures and information. Amongst the things I received were various types of shaving creams, skin care products, moisturizers and post-shave products. I look forward to trying them all and then ordering from the catalogue if there is something I can’t live without.

So when I said at the beginning that an experience at Trumper’s is difficult to describe, I truly mean it only one way. Is it possible for the same experience to feel exotic and normal at the same time? Is is possible for it to feel like you are being treated to one of the true hidden secrets for men while at the same time thinking that this is how men should take care of themselves?

Trumper’s makes one feel that way. It makes you remember that there was a time when men used these services out of necessity, not out of novelty.

Trumper’s can be found online by going here. My mother’s blog also chronicled the experience here.

The Art of Shaving

I don’t think I am exaggerating too much by using the word art to describe the men’s ritual of shaving their face. Considering all the tools that go into the process, the time compared to the rest of men’s typical facial care regimens and how prominently one’s face is displayed (and thus the mistakes one makes shaving), there must be special care and precision put into this routine.

First, let’s start with the tools. What does a man need to arm himself to do battle with his daily stubble? I will tell you what I use, but please feel free to use this advice or look for something else you prefer more.

Razor

At this point, it is a must that men use razors with more than one blade. I still use the original Mach 3 Turbo razor (and my handle is terribly worn down from use at this point) which can be picked up at any grocery or other sundry store for about $9. A lot of people I know use the Quattro razor as well, but I just prefer the Mach 3 with the triple razor strip that has the green lubricator strip that indicates when it needs to be replaced by the color fading.

If you are still using disposable razors of any kind, please cease and desist immediately. There are a number of reasons why: these blades aren’t as durable, it’s better for the environment, and basically it just doesn’t make sense to use a product with a sharp razor whose name inherently implies it should be thrown away.

The latest packages of blades come with five for the Turbo, and run about $13. Depending on frequency, you can probably make these last about three or four weeks, so you are talking about less than a dollar a day for blades that do a phenomenal job.

Shaving cream

Men, it’s time to get rid of the Barbasol and the foamies and embrace something better. Try looking for a gel or another product that is oil-free and that reacts well to your unique face. Personally, I use Clinique Aloe Shave Gel for Men. It is very soft against even days worth of facial hair, and the aloe helps protect against razor burn. This will cost you about $13 and should last a good two months.

In my travel bag, I also have a small tube of Anthony Logisitics shaving cream that costs $10. This is the perfect traveling size and Anthony loads their products full of some great stuff for your skin such as aloe, eucalyptus and vitamins.

One important note in trying out new shaving products is to make sure you find something that is not too thick – something that will not clump up on your face or on your blade when you go over it.

After-shave

I can probably start by saying that if you are using an aftershave that causes your face to burn after you splash it on, it’s not a good thing. Why would you continue to use something on your face that burns it and causes pain? Traditional, grandpa-using, splash-on aftershaves damage the pores of your skin over time and don’t soothe the skin after you have essentially cut off microscopic layers with the razor.

You need something that comforts and soothes the skin and also keeps it hydrated. My preferred choice right now is Kiehl’s Multi-Purpose Facial Formula. This product, at about $22.50 for 4.2 oz, can be used as more than just an aftershave, but also a lotion and rejuvenator as well, which is one of the main reasons I prefer it. It also does a good job of not leaving my face oily when applied.

Most people nowadays champion the cause of having some sunblock in their aftershave, especially if any time will be spent outdoors. I certainly do buy into this idea, thus the only downside to this Kiehls product is that it does not contain any. This one does, however, if you prefer it.

Pre-shave oil

While I do not use this very often, many men use a pre-shave application that “wakens” skin and prepares it for a shave, hopefully preventing irritation. While I personally don’t have one I use and recommend, each of the brands I have listed above carry a pre-shave oil and can be found here, here and here.

Badger brush

Definitely one of my favorite things that I own, I feel like I am preparing for a barbershop shave circa Chicago 1928 every time I pull it out. These can certainly get to be very expensive should you find one with real badger hair, but the one I use is from eShave.com and my wonderful wife bought it for me for just $55.

Using a badger hair brush when applying your shaving cream lifts the hair from the face, exfoliates it and also creates an even distribution of the cream, helping with the clumping problem mentioned a few lines back.

The Process

You will hear a lot of variations to this story, so I will just stick with mine, one that has worked for me for years and surely won’t let you down either.

I tend to only shave in the shower, first of all. The continuous hot water and the steam from the shower opens up your pores and helps prepare the face for shaving. The first step should obviously be to dampen the face well before anything else. If you are not using a pre-shave solution, then put about a quarter- to half-dollar-size portion of the shaving cream in the palm of your hand.

With your other hand, take your badger brush, dampen it and turn it in clockwise and counter-clockwise semi-circles, lathering up the cream on the brush. When it is evenly distributed, begin applying on your face with small, circular movements. Cover all of your neck area, sideburns, chin and above and below the mouth.

When this is done, rinse out the brush and hang it where the hairs can dry for its next use. Make sure your blade has run through some hot water, and then begin making smooth, steady strokes through the cream in the direction of hair growth. Use your other hand to pull your skin and keep it straight – this can help in the tougher, rounded areas.

With a Mach 3 or other multiple-razor blade, you should only really need to do this once. If hair is unusually long and it still feels necessary to repeat, lather up again and redo the shave. You will be able to feel if all the hair has been removed.

I prefer to completely rinse my face out of the shower with cold water. Colder water closes pores and also hydrates the skin in preparation for the aftershave. After lightly drying your face, apply a quarter-size drop of the aftershave to your fingertips and distribute evenly, being sure to work it in to every corner of the places you just finished shaving.

Now, perhaps you understand why I consider it an art-form, what with all that is involved. But after just a couple of times, this routine with similar products will help your face feel fresher and cleaner than it ever has. Your face is the most noticable, unique feature on your body – why not spend the time to take care of it?