Archive for the 'Reviews' Category

Save Jermyn Street!

I was recently emailed an article from the London Evening Standard that discusses a 50 million pound plan to demolish and remodel eight buildings in London’s historic West End, an area that includes the famed men’s shopping area of Jermyn Street. In danger of losing their stores in this remodeling effort, amongst others, are Herbie Frogg, Bates and recently discussed Trumper’s (not the original, but their second shop).

Having just visited London and shopped on this street, I would call this nothing short of a tragedy for the sartorially-minded male. So much history and craftsmanship reside on these few blocks.

Jermyn Street was originally named so after Henry Jermyn, 1st Earl of St. Albans, and has been peddling fine men’s clothing – particularly shirts (Savile Row is to suits as Jermyn Street is to shirts) – since the middle of the 18th century. Keep reading to find out a little bit more that I learned while I was there…

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Shortly after entering Jermyn Street, you are greeted by Beau Brummell, a 19th century gentleman who apparently defined elegance and style during his business around town. He stands guard of the street with the following quote on his plaque:

“To be truly elegant, one should not be noticed.”

I did manage to quickly visit each and every store on the block, but in sticking with tradition on this blog, have decided to highlight the most affordable of the lot.

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T.M. Lewin began on Jermyn Street in 1898 and has been a staple there since, despite expanding to more than 60 stores across the UK. I found TM Lewin to be the most affordable of the shops I visited, and was so without sacrificing fit and modernity. I ended up buying two shirts, two ties and a suit at this store before it was all said and done. Their clothes, especially the slim cut dress shirts, embody English tailoring and the pocket-pleasing prices were certainly welcome on an otherwise expensive street.

They support a vast website for men and women – and you can find it here.

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Charles Tyrwhitt is the new kid on the block on Jermyn Street. This shirt and suit retailer was only founded in 1986 by Nicholas Charles Tyrwhitt Wheeler to become a mass-producer of men’s and women’s shirts. Their prices are also on the reasonable side, especially during their annual end-of-range sale where I found the perfect blue and white striped, french-cuffed shirt I had been searching for all week for a mere 24 pounds.

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This particular shirt is from their slim fit line. I have owned a couple of their traditional cuts and do find them to be very “American” in that regard – much more baggy and flowing. Whatever style and collar you prefer can be found at their website.

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Another shirt retailer that began as a Jermyn Street staple and has since advanced and expanded globally is Thomas Pink. Slightly more expensive, but with superior selection, fit and quality, the Pink experience is something to behold. They pride themselves on service and catering to the customer, providing them with whatever they need.

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

This couldn’t be more true than in the example of their White Shirt bar, located at the Jermyn Street shop. A customer has dozens of choices for their made-to-order white dress shirt such as cuff, collar, fit, buttons, tabs, and a plethora of other decisions. Their sales representatives are happy to spend as long as it takes to find the perfect white shirt for you – and then you are expected to buy, buy, buy.

Visit the Thomas Pink website for more information.

Photo courtesy of Hawes and Curtis

Photo courtesy of Hawes and Curtis

Another imminently affordable shop along the route is Hawes & Curtis. H&C  was established in 1913 by two friends with a mission of providing quality products while also seeking out the opinion of customers to help define the inventory and style of shirt. They boast the Prince of Wales on their client roster and have also significantly expanded throughout the UK.

Hawes & Curtis have a useful and substantial web presence here.

Other famous shirt-makers and purveyors include the pricier, but classic and timeless Turnbull and Asser;

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

As well as Hilditch & Key.

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

Photo courtesy of Debi Kirksey

Quickly, Jermyn Street became one of my favorite places to browse, window shop and daydream. I visited the short little road at least three times on my trip, finding myself with each subsequent visit wishing more and more I could live near such a treasure chest of men’s fashion.

If some of it is to be remodeled and destroyed in the process, it will be devastating to those who see value in the historical precedence of elegance. These places for men are few and far between, but Jermyn Street certainly tops the list. Visit it when you can.

For more information on Jermyn Street, visit the street’s Association web page.

Geo. F. Trumper

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Trying to describe what an experience at Trumper’s in London is like is, frankly, quite difficult. When you walk into their original store on Curzon Street in the Mayfair part of town, you are instantly taken back to a time when men had to enter a shop such as this for proper grooming services.

Geo. F. Trumper is London’s oldest and most respected men’s barber and grooming institution, first opening its doors back in the 1850′s. Known for not only grooming services but for its vast inventory of grooming products for skin, hair and face, Trumper’s offers old-world services that are unrivaled at any other barber shop that one could frequent today. A quick check of the website and of their brochure shows that they offer, in addition to haircuts, hair tinting, mustache and beard trimming, shaves, manicures, pedicures, facial cleanses and massages.

When one comes in for one of these services, you are treated to your own individual station with a personal groomer. These stalls are from the original installation of the early 1900′s and feature a comfortable, relaxing chair with shelf upon shelf of the groomer’s favorite products. If privacy is requested, it can certainly be accommodated with drawn curtains.

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They do ask that you call ahead and make reservations. I happened to step into their second store on Jermyn Street on a Wednesday, and the employee happily called their flagship shop to make an appointment for my brother, father and I for shaves on Friday afternoon. The employees could not have been more polite or eager to help and answer all my questions – it was refreshing to have that type of service from someone who was not even getting my business that day.

At the time of our appointment, I asked to go last so I could observe my father and brother and get an outside perspective of what the experience is like.

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In the chair on the right is my father, experiencing his first hot towel-wet shave. His groomer was a man named Gerry who had been providing these services for 43 years – and he was an expert to say the least – so much so that he earned a new returning customer in my father.

As it came to be my turn, I forced myself to remember the experience and the sequence so I could accurately report it. And I couldn’t be happier that I did – because, wow, what  an experience it was.

After some water on my face, my gentleman began with a soothing lotion before applying the first hot towel of the process. After a good two minutes, he removed the hot towel and used a citrus-based pre-shave oil to open up the skin  and soften it before shaving. The shaving cream used was Trumper’s own almond cream product – something I almost bought simply because the smell was so incredible. Next, he used a straight razor blade to expertly remove the stubble I had let grow for three days prior – I did confirm that every razor is replaced after each client to avoid even the potential for transmission of any blood or skin.

Upon completion of the actual shave, he began to touch up my face with a bar that seemed to sting  with each touch of my skin. I asked him what it was and he told me that it was compressed salt. Salt, I learned, acts as a natural disinfectant much like lemon or vinegar. As the salt dries on the skin, it not only cleans it, but tightens the skin and the pores to close them back in. The last few steps were a post-shave lotion, another hot towel and finished off with a moisturizer to cool and heal the shaved area.

Not only was it the greatest shave I have ever had, but it was completely relaxing despite the presence of things like hot towels, straight razors and stinging bars.

A shave with no other services at Trumper’s will run you about 30 pounds, or roughly $48 at the moment (other services run from about 15 to 50 pounds). And while that might seem high, the experience and the attention to detail more than make up for the amount. It’s not like a shave at Trumper’s is not something a man is going to get everyday. It’s a treat – and one that is well worth its price.

And while I did not purchase anything else, I was able to spend a few minutes browsing the hundreds of products that were on display at the front of the store.

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Perhaps sensing my interest, the clerk proceeded to fill a bag for me with samples and brochures and information. Amongst the things I received were various types of shaving creams, skin care products, moisturizers and post-shave products. I look forward to trying them all and then ordering from the catalogue if there is something I can’t live without.

So when I said at the beginning that an experience at Trumper’s is difficult to describe, I truly mean it only one way. Is it possible for the same experience to feel exotic and normal at the same time? Is is possible for it to feel like you are being treated to one of the true hidden secrets for men while at the same time thinking that this is how men should take care of themselves?

Trumper’s makes one feel that way. It makes you remember that there was a time when men used these services out of necessity, not out of novelty.

Trumper’s can be found online by going here. My mother’s blog also chronicled the experience here.

Paris shopping (that’s actually affordable!)

I have been fortunate enough to have a work obligation that has taken me to Paris for about three days, and it has been quite a fun adventure being here for the first time by myself. Looking to fill a couple of days, and having done most of the touristy things in previous trips, I decided to explore the options for affordable shopping for men – something that is not always easy in a city of severe haute couture such as Paris. But, seeing how one of the main goals of this blog is to provide men with quality, affordable style solutions, I am happy to take on the Paris challenge – for my own interest as well as yours.

As with many things, location played a huge part in what I was able to find and what was accessible. I stayed this time at the Hotel de L’Arcade on Rue de L’Arcade near Place de Madeleine and Place de la Concorde. I have stayed here once before, but was not quite able to grasp the epicenter of shopping I was in.

Two streets near my hotel that are typically known for the quality and quantity of shopping are Rue Tronchet and Boulevard Haussman. Most places mentioned today will be on one of those two streets or just off of Place de Madeleine.

Timing was the second factor in my successful trip. I was in Paris from July 9-11 – right in the middle of when EVERY retail store in town has massive end-of-season sales before they bring out the “nouvelle collection” – the new stuff. Every shop has some sign in the window or marquis proclaiming “SOLDES!” or Sale!, and most range from the last week of June to the third week of July.

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Most places run anything from 20-50% off items in the store, so some good deals can be found, despite the fact that most shops are unaffordable for the average buyer to begin with.

The first thing you notice on the intersections of Tronchet and Haussman is that French department stores dominate. All of your Diors, Chanels, Guccis and Burberrys are there as well, but the majority of property is taken up by the multi-floor mammoth stores.

We’ll start with the most famous, Galleries Lafayette. Typically known as a purveyor of high fashion, especially for women, there were deep discounts and plenty to consider on the men’s side.

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There are separate stores for men, women and home with Lafayette, and the women’s store features the classic artistic dome – worth going in to shop just to view that masterpiece. The store for men (homme) features its own line of business wear, much like a Nordstrom does, and all of those items were on sale. I found (and by “found” I mean bought) ties for about 13 Euros, or $20 – they were regularly 40 Euros or more. Their dress shirts ranged from sale prices of about 19 Euros to 40-50 Euros. I spotted other designers such as Alain Figaret, Kenzo and Armani at 50% off as well.

Most of the top designers featured many items on sale, but even 50% off is sometimes not enough to make a dent in a 600 Euro suit. But, with about five floors featuring things like accessories, urban wear, business and shoes, there were still many deals to be found.

A Galleries Lafayette clone down the street is Printemps L’Homme. Much like Lafayette, Printemps showcases separate men’s and women’s stores, and also like Lafayette, features all the expensive items you want.

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Printemps had things laid out a bit differently, however. Many of their best sale items where featured when you walk in the front door, so you don’t have to look very far to find deals on Lacoste or Thomas Pink. Beyond that, I did not find may discernible differences between Printemps and Lafayette – both feature similar fashion with similar floors and similar deals. Still, a few more affordable items could be found by digging deep at Printemps, in my opinion.

Next up are a couple of lower priced department stores, akin to a Macy’s, for a local comparison. C&A is a much more affordable alternative to the previous stores mentioned. You are not going to find Hermes and Dolce & Gabbana at C&A, but plenty of lower-end European manufacturers who have quality clothing (especially in the way they fit) are sold there.

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C&A was started over 100 years ago by two brothers, and although it has had some rough times financially lately, it is still a staple all over Europe. I was able to find a belt I had been looking for from this store for about 15 Euro. Probably the best overall prices were at C&A when considering the sales in each store.

A retail outlet I had never heard of before caught my eye as my day was almost over – a store called Madelios. The slogan for this one was most interesting.

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Basically, “Le Grand Magasin Pour Hommes” means The Big Store For Men. Madelios seemed to be like a large conglomeration of many men’s stores all in one place – with the prices and quality falling somewhere in the middle of Lafayette and C&A – but everything seemed to be disjointed here. No real rhyme or reason in how it was laid out. I didn’t find anything here I couldn’t live without.

Speaking of low-priced men’s stores, I would be remiss to not mention one of my favorites, H&M.

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I know there is nothing earth-shattering about H&M, and that everyone knows about it, but since there is STILL not one in the city where I live – only the third-largest city in America – I continue to have to visit them when I travel to other locations.

This one on Boulevard Haussman is not the best one for men (there is a bigger one in another part of town), but I did find a great purple tie on super-sale for 5 Euro.

On my way back to the hotel, I actually ran across a store I have grown to love – Salamander shoes. If you remember, I discussed Salamander when I wrote a post about wingtips and how I loved the ones I bought there in 2007. Fond memories, I guess, but it was good to discover how close it was to where I was staying.

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Shoes are always fun to browse in a city like Paris. There is something about the way they are displayed and how they all look lined up next to each other in the window that just makes you want to purchase them.

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And yes, those shoes are all on sale – you may notice some of the “Super Prix,” or Super Price signs on shoes thay say 119 Euro or 129 Euro. Yes, that’s more than $150, but it’s just what you are going to pay in Paris for dress shoes. Be prepared. But also notice how narrow these shoes are and how you can’t find a bulky or clunky one in the bunch – I love it.

One disappointing part of the exploration came when I ran across this on a street corner:

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Uniqlo is a Japanese clothing line that I was recently turned onto when GQ highlighted some of their suits that were very reasonably priced. You can’t find them at all in the U.S. (although you can order Uniqlo online), and it looks like I missed the Paris store on Haussman by a few months, as the signs all say that the shop will open fall of 2009.

Otherwise, however, I would have to call my two-day excursion a success. I found some stores I am sure to frequent when I come back, and found deals that would not otherwise had been offered had I been there at a different time of the year.

If you’re ever in Paris and can’t seem to find anything but the out-of-this-world boutiques, try Tronchet and Haussman – you’ll do much better.

The style of Matt Lauer

The Today Show on NBC had an interesting piece the morning of June 18 – on the fabulous subject of ties. “How appropriate!” you must be thinking, seeing how it was three days away from Father’s day and ties are the paragon of male-holiday gift giving. And yes, that was the reason for the bit, but they had a unique angle to the piece as they focused on the reemergence of the tie as well as the tie collections and tie thoughts of two of the network’s most familiar faces: Matt Lauer and Brian Williams.

Both did a little ribbing of the other and of Al Roker, the host of the piece, and they posted extended video of the interviews online, breaking it up into specific pieces for Williams and Lauer. The piece that aired on TV is found here:

http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/26184891/vp/31423437#31423437

While the full video for Lauer can be found here:

http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/26184891/vp/31423437#31413418

All joking aside, Matt Lauer has become a fashion icon of sorts for many men in this country. Personally, I sport a similar hairstyle and quite enjoy his daily sartorial choices. I, however, never did pick up on the fact that his ties “always have some blue” in them.

Another interesting tidbit from the first piece is the interview with Adam Rappaport of GQ. When discussing Lauer, he comments that the Today Show host is neither fashion-forward or conservative, but rather covers himself like a “well-dressed European businessman.”

So at the urging of my wife and mother, and to satisfy my own curiosity, let’s dissect Lauer’s style at work and outside the office. Is he not fashion forward? Is he not conservative? Is he a European businessman? We’ll see.

Let’s start with his typical office wear – the suits. Suits are his uniform and it’s only on rare occasions that he has to dress like this:

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I have been doing some research lately (i.e. watching some TV in the morning) and have discovered that Lauer is predominantly going to wear a suit that is a shade of grey. They trend darker in the NYC fall and winter and much lighter in the summer, but grey with some blue in the shirt and/or tie is a safe bet. Let’s start with this one:

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Classic – that’s the word to describe this picture. A medium-shade of grey that truly could be worn year-round with the trendy and popular light blue shirt and solid navy tie. This is a suit/shirt combo you will see Lauer wearing on air as the light blue is best for TV lights instead of a white shirt.

But in this picture, Rappaport nails the description of being neither fashion forward or conservative. He is not wearing your traditional navy suit-white shirt-red tie presidential attire, but he is also not attempting the super-skinny tie or spread Windsor collar either. Notice the detail of the tie and lapel of the jacket being about the same width; that’s the sign you are dealing with someone savvy and sartorial.

This suit will work in 1959 and 2059 as well as it does in 2009.

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Here is a suit for the colder months – a darker grey pinstripe, with an off-white or possibly very light blue shirt. A sign that the suit fits well is that one can tell that Lauer still can be comfortable despite sitting down, cross-legged, and arms stretched out.

Details are important here as well. The perfect dimple in the tie, just enough sleeve poking out from the jacket, and also displaying what is slowly become his trademark; the JFK-style white pocket square with only the simple, straight line of linen showing.

The tie gives this suit a modern look, but tell me you can’t see this same suit on Cary Grant circa 1950.

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Again, the grey suit – but clearly wearing it out of the office this time. You can learn a lot from the little piece of this ensemble we can see.  What can seem to be a very straight-laced, basic suit – the grey suit with white shirt – can always be dapper-ed up a little bit with some original flair or design in the tie, a man’s one true blank canvas with which to work.

Nothing surprising or revolutionary here – the straight point collar, the exaggerated pin-dot look – all modern in style, but classic enough to pass the test of time.

In the Today Show and in the interviews above with Lauer, it becomes clear that suits are not jut a necessity for him, but rather a comfort zone. He has to know he looks good in them, so in turn, he takes pride in creating and refining his look in suits. And don’t be fooled, his look is not all the work of one of the show’s producers or designers – it’s his own.

Now for some more casual wear, here are some examples:

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Interesting outfit here in what is obviously a candid photo of Lauer. I am amazed at all the different shades that are in play here, yet they all seem to work, drawn together by an unconventional yet stylish pair of light brown cap-toes.

This does remind me of Europe what with the thick scarf, slim pants and sweater. On what is probably a cold spring night, Lauer certainly realizes bundling up doesn’t mean dressing down.

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In what was probably not his proudest moment, Lauer was injured a few months ago, separating his shoulder swerving to avoid a deer on his bike in Central Park. But despite donning a sling for a weeks, he manages to still define casual-cool.

I have seen Lauer in this double-zip cardigan on multiple occasions. He always seems to match it with a dress shirt and jeans – all very clean colors and straight lines that carry a French/Italian feel to it as well. You can tell the jeans are well-fitting and not baggy or sagging – an important lesson for today’s man.

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For what looks like a night out, Lauer chooses the dressier casual approach, with basic sport coat, crisp white shirt and flat-front dress pants. Again, muted colors, nothing flashy, clothes that fit appropriately, and making simple things work to look classic – notice a pattern here?

It’s funny how Lauer uses the white pocket square in this outfit. Where we discussed above how he chooses almost daily to show the small, straight line with his suits on the air, he decides in this picture to go with the more laissez-faire approach, with the “give it a tuck and go” toss into the pocket. It’s almost like he uses the white pocket square to help define what he is doing – saying I know how to separate work and play.

Other things I like here: the matching of the belt and shoes – always a subtle detail, the open jacket – gives off an air of casualness, and the orange cell phone cover – just for it being a little funky.

So the final verdict? Simple colors, clothes that fit to the body, attention to details, and a touch of modernity? All these things shout out European everyday couture, so I can’t help but agree with Adam Rappaport.

Lauer has style worth emulating, style that is admittedly his own.

Moscow Fashion Week

No, no – Moscow has not decided to add a weeklong series of designer shows and runway presentations a la Paris, New York and Milan.

I just returned from spending almost a week in Moscow on business, but commented to a friend before my departure that I was curious to see in the perpetual sub-freezing temperatures how a society’s fashion adapts and could it be done stylistically and without sacrificing its gravitas.

Long story short, I was pleasantly surprised.

Admittedly, we were in one of the more upscale, toursity parts of town for the duration of our trip, so the ushankas and grimy overcoats were not as prevalent. But, there were still a number of highlights that I took from the trip that can give hope to the frosty and fashion-conscious.

1. When dark colors are a must, choose to express yourself through accessories – Dark suits, dark overcoats, dark shoes and dark hats are all necessary when it is in the 20′s everyday, so color is often thrown by the side of the road. But the most stylish Moscovians brightened up their outfits with colorful ties, scarves and pocket sqaures. It was also not odd to see men wearing their favorite gingham shirts in blue, green, purple or even red under their layers. Mixing patterns between shirts and ties didn’t stand out like one would see in the U.S. these days. Their checkered shirts demanded solid ties. When you are covered half the time anyways, there was no need to embellish.

2. Slender still rules – even in the coldest of weather and in the bulkiest of clothes, many locals seemed to make it a priority to keep the shape of their silhouette as true as possible. When discussing suits, pants and shoes, this seemed simple and fuss-free – the suit in Russia has a very European feel to it and fits well. With its modern fit and straight lines, we could easily have been in Paris or Florence. But when adding a large overcoat, I can see where the problems would arise. But Moscow distinctly reminded me of a photo shoot I saw in a recent GQ that featured overcoats modeled by Joshua Jackson of all people. Designers are apparently taking more of an interest in slender, form-fitting coats that still provide outstanding warmth. If you are man enough to go to the Josh Jackson homepage, all of the photos can be seen here. Apparently, some of the important things to consider are coats that don’t go below the knees or that create a flowing effect that can widen the body, as well as slim shoulders – not something that bulks out well past your clothes.

And while I did not pass any on the street, there must be a thriving tailor business to keep these Russian businessmen in their trim suits.

3. Materials and fabrics must de considered – when your city is in a constant state of snow in the air and snow and ice on the ground, the cotton suits and untreated, expensive leather shoes aren’t going to cut it. High-quality wool is the fabric of choice for suits and I spotted more than a few dozen patented leather shoes on men’s feet, apparently sacrificing quality for cost, durability and “lastability.” One slip-up and step in the show could ruin your $600 Bally shoes before you can say “Vy gavareeteh pa anglisky?” (Do you speak English?) And when living in a climate where you can wear your wool suits year-round, embracing the fact that it will keep you warmest becomes very relevant.

4. The “used-to-it” factor – living in Houston, I never experience temperatures as cold as we had in Moscow. So, as I was bundled up in my layers and overcoat and thick scarf to walk to the Red Square, the locals have dealt with this weather their whole lives. It may not seem like it, but this was not an insignificant factor in fashion choices. Many men were tolerating the weather with merely a suit and v-neck sweater combination or a sport-coat and Chesterfield duo. So while this Texan had to wrap his scarf around his face so that his nose didn’t freeze off, the locals simply have decided to not let the cold get the best of them in their fashion sense. Either that or the vodka and Beluga provides all the warmth they need.

So while the Overcoat is so much a part of the lives of Russians, whether sartorially or literally, there is hope and proof that it can be done within the boundaries of haute couture. And much like Akaky Bashmachkin strived to live minimally to afford his new coat, a minimal amount of effort in the coldest of environments can lead to a wealth of frigid fashion sense.

2009 Oscars – Men’s Fashion

Much like Adrien Brody on stage with Sir Anthony Hopkins, Michael Douglas, Robert De Niro and Sir Ben Kingsley, coverage of men’s fashion at the Oscars doesn’t really seem to fit in with all of the thousands and thousands of words spewed about the ladies; their dresses, jewelry, accessories, etc.

Granted, men are generally limited in their options, with the most extravagant thing you can do would be to not wear a tie with your tuxedo:

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But it is still worth noting and reviewing at the very least to look at who did it well, who could have done better, and what trends emerged from the most elegant and graceful awards presentation of the season. The mere fact that one of the red carpet hosts on ABC this year was Tim Gunn shows what emphasis is placed on the critical eye with which the Academy Awards are viewed. Gunn, forced to work out in the sun for a couple of hours, did well in his style – as one would expect from a fashion tour de force.

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Certainly one of the slimmer lapel of all the tuxes I saw that night, but it works for a man with a thinner frame such as Gunn. I prefer my bow tie a bit wider, but all in all, very classic and classy.

But let’s look at some of the other highlights and lowlights of the evening, starting with the best-dressed.

Best Dressed

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As host, Hugh Jackman had to make not only an outstanding first impression, but a lasting one as well. As you can tell by his custom-made tuxedo, this is a man who can handle not only the burden of joking and singing his way through the show, but also the burden of looking timeless all evening. I almost knocked him down a grade or two when I thought his shirt had mere buttons in lieu of white or ivory studs, but upon further review, I believe they are the appropriate accessory, and I will leave him where he belongs. From what I have read, the shirt is Burberry and the shoes are Ferragamo. His tie, designer unknown, almost looks too perfect. We can chalk that to probably a dozen fashion assistants assigned to him backstage instead of the unthinkable pre-tied.

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I was supremely and pleasantly surprised place Seth Rogan on this list. He has apparently recently lost an incredible amount of weight and he has removed the scruffy curly hair and five-o’clock-two-days-from-now shadow. Not to mention the crumpled polo and baggy jeans have not been seen on him for ages. The structured black glasses provide a bit of balance to Rogan who has otherwise pale skin and can be drowned out in all black. Nicely done on using his new figure to his advantage.

Rogan had a photoshoot with GQ back in 2007. Is it possible something like that could cause a paradigm shift?

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We should just create an instructional video entitled “How to Wear a Tuxedo Properly to a Black Tie Event: with narrarator Brad Pitt.” Actually, the jacket’s sleeves are a little too long for my taste – where’s the shirt cuff? But I am really just digging for something now.

Notice the hourglass shape of the coat. For all you kids out there, that’s what you should be going for.

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I think there were about five people in the audience that got the whole “and boom goes the dynamite” quote, but no one there could deny the style portrayed by one of Hollywood’s leading men and style icons.

But, as you can tell in this photo, those actually are buttons instead of studs. Hey, Fresh Prince, you get paid $20m per picture – go pick up a set of black studs at Macy’s for thirty bucks. An A- instead of A for that gaffe.

Johnny Cash Awards – for the all-black look

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Sean Penn – maybe the all-black was a statement in protest against all the “commie, homo-loving, sons-of-guns” in the audience. Not my favorite look.

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Jochen Freydank – “Congratulations to me! I can’t tell where my jacket ends and my shirt begins!”

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Eddie Murphy – “I am wearing all black because I’m in mourning. My career died after The Nutty Professor.”

Most Noticable Trend – The Skinny Bow Tie

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I have started seeing this a lot lately, and not just with formal bow ties and tuxedoes. Plenty of high-end and more affordable designer have begun making these skinny bow ties, an obvious derivative of the skinny tie so evident these days. Zac Efron obviously has caught on to the trend early, as have the following gentlemen.

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Team Edward has picked up on it as well. Robert Pattinson of Twilight was also seen sporting a skinny bow tie.

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James Bond (Daniel Craig – one of my all-time favorites) also sported a slightly crumpled version of the skinny bow tie. In addition, Craig went the untraditional messy look of the pocket square, bucking the “half inch of straight white showing” standard.

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And another British bloke, Dominic Cooper, chooses skinny over traditional Saville Row.

Mickey Rourke Lifetime Acheivement Award for Wanting to be Casual at a Black Tie Affair

Of course, Rourke would have won this easily for his white suit, open white shirt, no tie and necklace that paid tribute to his recently-deceased dog, but since it is named for him, we must go elsewhere.

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Danny Boyle had to know his movie was the odds-on favorite for most of the categories for which it was nominated. To choose to take the stage as the Best Director and with the Best Picture with a loose tie and unbuttoned collar is almost like trying to make a fashion statement that button-up-edness of the event is just not necessary. You weren’t asked to pick the dress code, bub. Stick with what you are expected to do.

Honorable mention:

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No comment necessary. If you don’t know what this is from, Google Joaquin Phoenix and David Letterman together.

Awards for the Most Room for Improvement (hey, I’m a glass half-full guy):

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Alan Arkin must have been so flummoxed by Philip Seymour Hoffman’s outfit and knit cap that he called him by the wrong name – “Seymour Philip Hoffman.” Was it supposed to snow inside the Kodak Theatre?

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Louis Gossett, Jr. just needs to go back to making Iron Eagle movies. Why was he even there? Was James Avery not available?

Overall, not a bad night stylistically for the men. Most were impeccably dressed and one could tell thought and precision and time were put into dressing for one of the most publicized and criticized nights of the year. There were many more names of men who did it correctly that I have not listed that could fill pages and pages. Hopefully this just provides a sample of what went right and wrong and hope that there can be some slight improvements next year.

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Most pictures taken from Yahoo!Movies