Archive for the 'Shoes' Category

Paris shopping (that’s actually affordable!)

I have been fortunate enough to have a work obligation that has taken me to Paris for about three days, and it has been quite a fun adventure being here for the first time by myself. Looking to fill a couple of days, and having done most of the touristy things in previous trips, I decided to explore the options for affordable shopping for men – something that is not always easy in a city of severe haute couture such as Paris. But, seeing how one of the main goals of this blog is to provide men with quality, affordable style solutions, I am happy to take on the Paris challenge – for my own interest as well as yours.

As with many things, location played a huge part in what I was able to find and what was accessible. I stayed this time at the Hotel de L’Arcade on Rue de L’Arcade near Place de Madeleine and Place de la Concorde. I have stayed here once before, but was not quite able to grasp the epicenter of shopping I was in.

Two streets near my hotel that are typically known for the quality and quantity of shopping are Rue Tronchet and Boulevard Haussman. Most places mentioned today will be on one of those two streets or just off of Place de Madeleine.

Timing was the second factor in my successful trip. I was in Paris from July 9-11 – right in the middle of when EVERY retail store in town has massive end-of-season sales before they bring out the “nouvelle collection” – the new stuff. Every shop has some sign in the window or marquis proclaiming “SOLDES!” or Sale!, and most range from the last week of June to the third week of July.

soldes

Most places run anything from 20-50% off items in the store, so some good deals can be found, despite the fact that most shops are unaffordable for the average buyer to begin with.

The first thing you notice on the intersections of Tronchet and Haussman is that French department stores dominate. All of your Diors, Chanels, Guccis and Burberrys are there as well, but the majority of property is taken up by the multi-floor mammoth stores.

We’ll start with the most famous, Galleries Lafayette. Typically known as a purveyor of high fashion, especially for women, there were deep discounts and plenty to consider on the men’s side.

Lafayette

There are separate stores for men, women and home with Lafayette, and the women’s store features the classic artistic dome – worth going in to shop just to view that masterpiece. The store for men (homme) features its own line of business wear, much like a Nordstrom does, and all of those items were on sale. I found (and by “found” I mean bought) ties for about 13 Euros, or $20 – they were regularly 40 Euros or more. Their dress shirts ranged from sale prices of about 19 Euros to 40-50 Euros. I spotted other designers such as Alain Figaret, Kenzo and Armani at 50% off as well.

Most of the top designers featured many items on sale, but even 50% off is sometimes not enough to make a dent in a 600 Euro suit. But, with about five floors featuring things like accessories, urban wear, business and shoes, there were still many deals to be found.

A Galleries Lafayette clone down the street is Printemps L’Homme. Much like Lafayette, Printemps showcases separate men’s and women’s stores, and also like Lafayette, features all the expensive items you want.

printemps

Printemps had things laid out a bit differently, however. Many of their best sale items where featured when you walk in the front door, so you don’t have to look very far to find deals on Lacoste or Thomas Pink. Beyond that, I did not find may discernible differences between Printemps and Lafayette – both feature similar fashion with similar floors and similar deals. Still, a few more affordable items could be found by digging deep at Printemps, in my opinion.

Next up are a couple of lower priced department stores, akin to a Macy’s, for a local comparison. C&A is a much more affordable alternative to the previous stores mentioned. You are not going to find Hermes and Dolce & Gabbana at C&A, but plenty of lower-end European manufacturers who have quality clothing (especially in the way they fit) are sold there.

C&A

C&A was started over 100 years ago by two brothers, and although it has had some rough times financially lately, it is still a staple all over Europe. I was able to find a belt I had been looking for from this store for about 15 Euro. Probably the best overall prices were at C&A when considering the sales in each store.

A retail outlet I had never heard of before caught my eye as my day was almost over – a store called Madelios. The slogan for this one was most interesting.

madelios

Basically, “Le Grand Magasin Pour Hommes” means The Big Store For Men. Madelios seemed to be like a large conglomeration of many men’s stores all in one place – with the prices and quality falling somewhere in the middle of Lafayette and C&A – but everything seemed to be disjointed here. No real rhyme or reason in how it was laid out. I didn’t find anything here I couldn’t live without.

Speaking of low-priced men’s stores, I would be remiss to not mention one of my favorites, H&M.

H&M

I know there is nothing earth-shattering about H&M, and that everyone knows about it, but since there is STILL not one in the city where I live – only the third-largest city in America – I continue to have to visit them when I travel to other locations.

This one on Boulevard Haussman is not the best one for men (there is a bigger one in another part of town), but I did find a great purple tie on super-sale for 5 Euro.

On my way back to the hotel, I actually ran across a store I have grown to love – Salamander shoes. If you remember, I discussed Salamander when I wrote a post about wingtips and how I loved the ones I bought there in 2007. Fond memories, I guess, but it was good to discover how close it was to where I was staying.

salamander

Shoes are always fun to browse in a city like Paris. There is something about the way they are displayed and how they all look lined up next to each other in the window that just makes you want to purchase them.

shoes1

shoes2

And yes, those shoes are all on sale – you may notice some of the “Super Prix,” or Super Price signs on shoes thay say 119 Euro or 129 Euro. Yes, that’s more than $150, but it’s just what you are going to pay in Paris for dress shoes. Be prepared. But also notice how narrow these shoes are and how you can’t find a bulky or clunky one in the bunch – I love it.

One disappointing part of the exploration came when I ran across this on a street corner:

uniqlo

Uniqlo is a Japanese clothing line that I was recently turned onto when GQ highlighted some of their suits that were very reasonably priced. You can’t find them at all in the U.S. (although you can order Uniqlo online), and it looks like I missed the Paris store on Haussman by a few months, as the signs all say that the shop will open fall of 2009.

Otherwise, however, I would have to call my two-day excursion a success. I found some stores I am sure to frequent when I come back, and found deals that would not otherwise had been offered had I been there at a different time of the year.

If you’re ever in Paris and can’t seem to find anything but the out-of-this-world boutiques, try Tronchet and Haussman – you’ll do much better.

Item to own: The Wingtip

I may have mentioned this before, but shoes and I don’t always get along. I have an internal battle about my passion for shoes all the time. I’ll tell you why…

When it comes to dress shoes, maybe even more so than any other item in your wardrobe, all of the old adages are correct: “you get what you pay for” and “the better the cost, the better the quality” all adequately describe shoe procurement. When we discussed fabrics, specifically leather, I mentioned that the more you pay for leather shoes, the better the quality of leather you should be receiving. If you want the best shoes around, you are going to be paying the worst (read: highest) prices. You will get a product that, assuming it is properly cared for, will last for years.

The fly in the ointment is that the average man will typically be harder on their shoes than on anything else in their wardrobe. They come in contact with the ground hundreds of times a day, they can get wet, you can scuff them on the curb, they get stepped on, etc. There are a thousand different ways to ruin them, many of which are irreparable.

And on and on the debate rages…..spend the money and in turn risk the shoes? Or save the money and sacrifice on quality and, in many cases, style? Eventually you have to decide on one or the other or go through the agonizing search, as I have recently done, to desperately seek the high-quality dress shoe that can be found on sale or at a price that you feel is reasonable.

Eventually, you will have to make the choice of what dress shoe to purchase. Before you pull out the credit card, I must recommend to you wingtips.

wingtip

Wingtips are characterized by the design near the toe of the shoe that essentially forms the shape of a W or what can be described as a bird with wings. Typically, there exists a punched pattern along the edges of the W known as “brogueing.”

According to Wikipedia, wingtips (or brogues) come from the Scottish and Irish Gaelic word meaning shoe – fitting since these shoes were first developed in Scotland and Ireland.

I have gone back and forth between wingtips and oxfords or cap-toes, but when I am sporting the wingtips, it seems almost like I have a step up in class. The elegance of the shoe is matched by the precision with which it must be made and stitched – and that is most evident in wingtips.

So where can you find a great pair for a reasonable price? Certainly the expensive labels carry them, such as Ferragamo, Bally’s and Church’s. But what about something more affordable? Let’s say $200 or less? Here is what I found:

Banana Republic Otto Wingtip

At $185, I usually will look for something with a little bit of a narrower shape, but this is a very classic wingtip made of textured leather.

BR also sells a very attractive Salvador Wingtip through their Monogram label at $225 if you don’t mind paying a little bit more (these are the shoes pictured above).

Cole Haan Air Carter Wingtip

Available through the Dillard’s website for $158, Cole Haan always makes a reliable, lasting, quality shoe – this style available in black. The heel is also not too bulky on these, which is always a plus.

J. Crew Reed Wingtip

This shoe, available at $168 is advertised as “slightly narrower for a better fit,” so that is a plus. I can’t really personally speak to the quality of shoes at J. Crew, but it seems to be pretty classic.

Salamander Derby Classique

And finally, my favorite pair of shoes I ever owned was a pair of brown wingtips I bought in Paris from shoe manufacturer Salamander called the Derby Classique.

At the website (in French), the price is listed at 179 Euro which is about $235 today, but I got them for less than $200 at a boutique while I was overseas. You don’t have the option to buy from the website, so be sure to look them up if you are in France anytime soon. The Derby is the fifth shoe on the second row when you go to the link.

Despite wearing these shoes at least 3-4 times per week in all conditions, I had them re-heeled and re-capped, mended some worn leather, and overall took care of them, and they lasted about two years until they were unwearable. But they are still at the bottom of the closet – just in case.

You can find classic wingtips almost anywhere these days, but look for that delicate spot where you can balance some high quality with a reasonable price. It can be done – but it will take some effort.

And remember, like with all else these days, slim and narrow are in. Clunky toes and heels on the shoes simply draw attention to your feet, and we’re not talking about the type of attention you want.

Closet Essentials

No, this isn’t a post about the essential clothing items that should be present in a man’s closet – that was discussed in my Basics post. But rather, what is it that every man should have in their closet at their disposal to use for the proper care and treatment of what might very well be a multi-thousand dollar investment (depending on the number of items you own).

Admittedly, I get a little obsessive about closets. Being someone who is in the first stages of looking for a new, bigger home to accommodate a growing family, it is a moment of stark self-reflection when the closet size is one of the first things I consider about my new habitat. Whenever I make my way to Ikea or the Container Store, I dreamily wander through the staged closets pretending I own them.

Twelve year old girls planning their dream wedding can’t hold a candle to me.

A man’s closet can be a number of things: it can be a place of hiding a la Jamie Lee Curtis in Halloween

halloween

Or, a closet can be a place that you never want to enter; a place that conjures up fits of hysteria a la Katherine Heigl in 27 Dresses

27-dresses

But to me, a closet is a wonderful place. It is one part labratory, one part weapons cache and one part empty canvas. And any chemist or artist knows you must take steps to preserve your chemicals or your brushes and paints.

The same is true with a man’s wardrobe – and there are some very simple and inexpensive items that can aide in the care, storage and preservation of a man’s clothes:

closet3

Drawers
Let’s start with the biggest item here, the drawers. Now, I understand that not everyone has room in their closet for large sets of drawers. I mean, if you’re living in a small studio apartment, you may not even have a closet. But the functionality of these drawers are two-fold – even if they wind up in the bedroom. One, they will inevitably save space. I probably have 30 sweaters, and living in Houston, I wear them three months out of the year – maybe. If I was to hang every one along with every pair of jeans, khakis and workout clothes I own, I would certainly have no room for the things that need to hang – dress shirts, suits, dress pants, etc.

Another value of drawers is that it allows you to fold things that need to be folded. Have you ever left a sweater on a hanger all summer only to come back in October, take it off, and find two large bumps on either shoulder? Hanging sweaters ruins the structure of the garment and it also provides a desirable target for moths.

If you don’t have enough drawers, buy some cheap, plastic storage bins and place them under your bed until you need them. In the winter, take out your sweaters and place your polos and t-shirts inside.

Shoe Shine Kit
You will also see in this picture a shoe-shine kit. This was given to me as a gift, and I love it. One day, we will get into the specific details of shoe care, but for now, know that your kit should contain a polish for black and brown, a couple of clean rags, a soft brush, and heel polish. Polishing your shoes, especially leather ones, keeps the material moisturized and prevents premature cracking and lines in the shoe. Touch them up about once every 10 days or so.

Wooden Hangers
In what some people call overdoing it, I call necessity. As mentioned above, wire and even plastic hangers can deform the shape of shoulders in shirts and suit jackets. Thicker wooden hangers allow for more shape to be contained, especially if you have to hang up something wet.

And it’s not an indulgence at all – one can purchase 25 for less than $30 by visiting places like these.

Shoe Trees
Moving back to footwear, the thing that aides most in shoe protection besides a shine is the shoe tree. These items, usually recommended in cedar, are also good for two reasons:

1. You walk around all day in shoes and you might wear them 3-4 days a week. You want them to fit as comfortably as possible. Inserting shoe trees as soon as you take them off at the end of the day helps keep the shape you spent all day forming in them until the next time you put them on.

2. Probably more important – the cedar counterbalances any odors from the shoe, helping in what is sometimes a very sensitive area.

Valet
This little box I keep on top on my drawers in the closet is a catch-all for random things that need a home: cuff links, collar tabs, safety pins, tuxedo studs, extra keys, watches, etc. The faux leather one in the picture was about $20 at Pottery Barn on sale. You can also readily find two-level valets with spaces for larger items like a watch or iPod underneath.

With these few items, your closet and, in turn, your clothes not only become more manageable and protected, but it also gives the room a bit more panache – something that is commonly needed from a room so often ignored.