Archive for the 'Style Icons' Category

The style of Matt Lauer

The Today Show on NBC had an interesting piece the morning of June 18 – on the fabulous subject of ties. “How appropriate!” you must be thinking, seeing how it was three days away from Father’s day and ties are the paragon of male-holiday gift giving. And yes, that was the reason for the bit, but they had a unique angle to the piece as they focused on the reemergence of the tie as well as the tie collections and tie thoughts of two of the network’s most familiar faces: Matt Lauer and Brian Williams.

Both did a little ribbing of the other and of Al Roker, the host of the piece, and they posted extended video of the interviews online, breaking it up into specific pieces for Williams and Lauer. The piece that aired on TV is found here:

http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/26184891/vp/31423437#31423437

While the full video for Lauer can be found here:

http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/26184891/vp/31423437#31413418

All joking aside, Matt Lauer has become a fashion icon of sorts for many men in this country. Personally, I sport a similar hairstyle and quite enjoy his daily sartorial choices. I, however, never did pick up on the fact that his ties “always have some blue” in them.

Another interesting tidbit from the first piece is the interview with Adam Rappaport of GQ. When discussing Lauer, he comments that the Today Show host is neither fashion-forward or conservative, but rather covers himself like a “well-dressed European businessman.”

So at the urging of my wife and mother, and to satisfy my own curiosity, let’s dissect Lauer’s style at work and outside the office. Is he not fashion forward? Is he not conservative? Is he a European businessman? We’ll see.

Let’s start with his typical office wear – the suits. Suits are his uniform and it’s only on rare occasions that he has to dress like this:

77539988BB001_NBC_TODAY_SHO

I have been doing some research lately (i.e. watching some TV in the morning) and have discovered that Lauer is predominantly going to wear a suit that is a shade of grey. They trend darker in the NYC fall and winter and much lighter in the summer, but grey with some blue in the shirt and/or tie is a safe bet. Let’s start with this one:

lauer grey and navy

Classic – that’s the word to describe this picture. A medium-shade of grey that truly could be worn year-round with the trendy and popular light blue shirt and solid navy tie. This is a suit/shirt combo you will see Lauer wearing on air as the light blue is best for TV lights instead of a white shirt.

But in this picture, Rappaport nails the description of being neither fashion forward or conservative. He is not wearing your traditional navy suit-white shirt-red tie presidential attire, but he is also not attempting the super-skinny tie or spread Windsor collar either. Notice the detail of the tie and lapel of the jacket being about the same width; that’s the sign you are dealing with someone savvy and sartorial.

This suit will work in 1959 and 2059 as well as it does in 2009.

lauer grey pinstripe

Here is a suit for the colder months – a darker grey pinstripe, with an off-white or possibly very light blue shirt. A sign that the suit fits well is that one can tell that Lauer still can be comfortable despite sitting down, cross-legged, and arms stretched out.

Details are important here as well. The perfect dimple in the tie, just enough sleeve poking out from the jacket, and also displaying what is slowly become his trademark; the JFK-style white pocket square with only the simple, straight line of linen showing.

The tie gives this suit a modern look, but tell me you can’t see this same suit on Cary Grant circa 1950.

TV Lauer at the Movies

Again, the grey suit – but clearly wearing it out of the office this time. You can learn a lot from the little piece of this ensemble we can see.  What can seem to be a very straight-laced, basic suit – the grey suit with white shirt – can always be dapper-ed up a little bit with some original flair or design in the tie, a man’s one true blank canvas with which to work.

Nothing surprising or revolutionary here – the straight point collar, the exaggerated pin-dot look – all modern in style, but classic enough to pass the test of time.

In the Today Show and in the interviews above with Lauer, it becomes clear that suits are not jut a necessity for him, but rather a comfort zone. He has to know he looks good in them, so in turn, he takes pride in creating and refining his look in suits. And don’t be fooled, his look is not all the work of one of the show’s producers or designers – it’s his own.

Now for some more casual wear, here are some examples:

lauer scarf

Interesting outfit here in what is obviously a candid photo of Lauer. I am amazed at all the different shades that are in play here, yet they all seem to work, drawn together by an unconventional yet stylish pair of light brown cap-toes.

This does remind me of Europe what with the thick scarf, slim pants and sweater. On what is probably a cold spring night, Lauer certainly realizes bundling up doesn’t mean dressing down.

lauer casual injured

In what was probably not his proudest moment, Lauer was injured a few months ago, separating his shoulder swerving to avoid a deer on his bike in Central Park. But despite donning a sling for a weeks, he manages to still define casual-cool.

I have seen Lauer in this double-zip cardigan on multiple occasions. He always seems to match it with a dress shirt and jeans – all very clean colors and straight lines that carry a French/Italian feel to it as well. You can tell the jeans are well-fitting and not baggy or sagging – an important lesson for today’s man.

waverly inn 160508

For what looks like a night out, Lauer chooses the dressier casual approach, with basic sport coat, crisp white shirt and flat-front dress pants. Again, muted colors, nothing flashy, clothes that fit appropriately, and making simple things work to look classic – notice a pattern here?

It’s funny how Lauer uses the white pocket square in this outfit. Where we discussed above how he chooses almost daily to show the small, straight line with his suits on the air, he decides in this picture to go with the more laissez-faire approach, with the “give it a tuck and go” toss into the pocket. It’s almost like he uses the white pocket square to help define what he is doing – saying I know how to separate work and play.

Other things I like here: the matching of the belt and shoes – always a subtle detail, the open jacket – gives off an air of casualness, and the orange cell phone cover – just for it being a little funky.

So the final verdict? Simple colors, clothes that fit to the body, attention to details, and a touch of modernity? All these things shout out European everyday couture, so I can’t help but agree with Adam Rappaport.

Lauer has style worth emulating, style that is admittedly his own.

Style Icons: Cary Grant

A couple days ago, my wife, a film aficionado, opened up her Alfred Hitchcock box set she received for Christmas and decided to start with the classic North by Northwest. This film centers around the themes of deception and mistaken identity and stars Cary Grant as the poor advertising executive mistaken for a government agent.

After watching just a short piece of the movie, she tells me that she loved being reminded about the stylistically classic and timeless Cary Grant. And just as she loved being reminded, and, in turn, reminding me, I feel it my duty to spread the word about this leading man and the role he still plays in style.

c-grant-nbn

Grant in North by Northwest

A quick, off-the-cuff way to determine classic style is to always try and pull your subject off the page or out of the movie and place them walking down a busy street in the current year. Do they blend in? Is anyone staring at them because of their odd fashion choices? Is it obvious they do not belong in 2009? Frankly, I think you would be hard-pressed to say “no” to any of these about Grant. Another picture from the movie as an example:

c-grant-nbn2

Looking stylish while having a drink

A British-born actor (originally Archibald Alec Leach before taking up his stage name), Grant was in movies for more than three decades, earning himself an Academy Award for Lifetime Achievement in 1970 after he was shut out of winning the award when he was nominated twice in the 1940′s.

But even long before his death in 1986, Grant was being idolized and immortalized by countless books, articles, biographies and other mediums. Today, you can find literally tens of thousands of hits when typing “cary grant style” into a search engine. Personally, I read at least a couple dozen articles, blogs and reviews of Cary Grant before writing this piece.

Still, as accessible a man as he may be, one does not become so revered just for being a great actor (voted second-best all-time behind Bogart) or by dressing impeccably (GQ voted Grant’s suit worn in North by Northwest the best suit in film history) or by being charming (he is thought to have popularized the idea that a leading lady could be a partner to the man in creative conversation, witty banter and physical expression). It has to be all of those things, or maybe it has to be so much more than those things.  It must be about gravitas; about panache; about….true style.

From all that I read, I think I can sum up what developed Grant’s style in a few key ideas; ideas that any man could benefit from adopting:

Simplicity - perhaps the most underrated quality of a man’s wardrobe, Grant personified not making things too difficult. Many of his suits were shades of gray and blue, with a few black thrown in. He wore dark in the winter and light in the summer and rarely ventured into complex patterns or combination. His everyday look would be solid-color suit, solid shirt, solid tie, solid pocket square. Easy to do and easy to replicate. You can literally find dozens of sites that will teach you how to “dress like Cary Grant,” a feat that can not easily be copied using various other celebrity figures throughout the past century.

Confidence - with a difficult childhood in his past, and facing his awkward twenties as a street performer, juggler and dancer, fine-tuning his craft and being himself in real-life or someone else on screen never came difficult for Grant. There are countless quotes out there about Grant and the way he carried himself in private and around others. The old Connery line, “men want to be him, women want to meet him,” line certainly applies as well. Grant was so confident in fact, that he became the first actor to break away from the standard motion picture studio contract game and freelance himself to studios for his services; leading him to star in some of the best movies of the past 100 years as well as earn boatloads of money.

Grant’s attention to stylistic detail helped him to know, not think, that he was the best-looking in the room. No matter the occasion, Grant was prepared.

Dedication - Grant is famous for once saying, “do your job and demand your compensation – but in that order.” A man passionate in his dedication to his job, friends and family, Grant desired to always be the best.

Dedication to work, to play and to style led Grant to become the most sought-after man in Hollywood and influenced Hitchcock to say that Grant was the only actor he ever loved.

In style, dedication can be difficult – it seems like things are always changing. But using a combination of simplicity and confidence, the craft becomes easier. I have been a student of style for nine years, since the spring semester of 2000 that I spent in Florence. For every one thing I think I know, there are 1,000 things I have not yet discovered. But just as I admire Grant for his dedication, I stay committed to it, trying to learn a new thing every day.

Charm - I think we all could come to some sort of consensus as to what charm can mean when we contextualize it as in the presence of a lady. That goes along with a discussion on etiquette and is way out of the realm of this discourse.

Charm, in the world of style, however, can have multiple alluring descriptions. Grant exemplified these with class and ease. It might best be seen in his always-present pocket square, perfectly placed. It might be the fact that he was photographed multiple times sitting Indian-style, yet his clothes still looked as comfortable on him as they would if he were standing. It might be the ascot he loved to wear, including in his role alongside Grace Kelly in Hitchcock’s To Catch a Thief. It might be the perfect tie dimple – I challenge you to do an image search and find a tie of his without one.

Charm in style means subtleties, it means details, it means taking a second look. No one did this better than Grant.

c-grant1

For other great reads on Grant, I recommend you go three places.

Check out Richard Torregrossa’s book, Cary Grant: A Celebration of Style, which can be found on Amazon or st any bookstore.

Torregrossa also gives a very descriptive interview about the book and Cary Grant at carygrant.net.

Also check out the review of this book which contains a fabulously-written narrative and biography of Grant the man by Benjamin Schwarz of The Atlantic.

America and stylish men

It’s fashion season around these parts, in case you had not noticed: fashion week is upon us in Bryant Park in New York, awards season is here which means an abundance of designer outfits that will be worn one time and then donated to charity, Michelle Obama and her designer, Jason Wu, are getting a ton of press for their garments. But one thing late last week caught my attention.

In advance of their latest issue, GQ announced online their choices for the Ten Most Stylish Men in America. The complete list and slideshow can be found here, but below is a quick rundown of the men who made the list:

Justin Timberlake – entertainer – named most stylish man in America
Mark Ronson – DJ, producer
Alexi Lubomirski – photographer
Andre Balazs – hotelier
Kanye West – pop musician, aspiring designer
Sid Mashburn – haberdasher, Southern Gentleman
T.I. – M.C.
Glenn O’Brien – GQ’s Style Guy
Jason Schwartzman – actor, indie rocker
Ed Ruscha – artist, LA icon

I don’t by any means think that any of these men are not stylish. In fact, I applaud GQ for not doing a safe list with the same old names like George Clooney, Johnny Depp, et al. At least these are some men we may not have heard of before, and we are allowed to peer into the world of some new(er) faces.

But this list got me thinking about stylish men in America – more specifically, who I feel are the most stylish men in the history of this country. So while I have put plenty of thought into this subject before, never before have I put my thoughts down on paper (read: hard drive) as to my picks.

So I present to you, sticking with the theme GQ established, my most stylish men in the history of America. Presented in no particular order.

Robert Redford

robert-redford

This is one of my favorite pictures of all time and is a paragon of timeless style at work. Despite the fact that this picture was taken about 30 years ago, look at the outfit: the slim jeans, the tweed jacket, the aviators, the boots – you could lift this right off of him and place it on someone today and it would work. Maybe we can leave the mustache behind, however.

Redford has always been one of the best of pulling off an outfit no matter what the time frame or circumstance. He seems to effortlessly accept what must be worn and pull it off with confidence.

One of the most underrated stylish movies, in my opinion, is Spy Game, with Redford and Brad Pitt. Redford’s style in the movie spans the Vietnam war, Germany and Eastern Europe in the 80’s, and 1990’s Washington DC. Watch it – the style journey within is amazing.

John F. Kennedy

ap_kennedy_050111_assh

Imagine an entire country following a trend based on one day of one man’s life. Well that is exactly what happened after Kennedy’s inauguration in 1961. Kennedy braved a cold January day with no fedora or top hat, becoming what is believed to be the first president to do so. From that day forward, hats were no longer a staple in men’s wardrobes.

This day would eventually become just the first of many days that a country would look on this president as a style icon. Whether in his office, at home, sailing, or playing with the kids, his style was always impressive – some would say, presidential.

Dean Martin

dean-martin-lapel-sm

Probably the swankiest member of the famed Rat Pack, Dean Martin was known for heavy drinking and always looking good. Martin was famous for always having three things at his disposal – a cigarette, his legendary charm and the best clothes he could find. Ruling an entire town such as Las Vegas required as much.

But he and his gang would always be linked with the eat-drink-and-be-merry lifestyle of the Wes Coast in the 50′s and early 60′s. The tragic assassination of the man listed above sent a country into turmoil and a once-invincible man into a career decline.

Tom Brady

4_style_icon

A more modern addition to my personal list – this debonair quarterback went from relative unknown from Michigan to a Super Bowl-winning, MVP-dominating, model-dating, stylaholic.

It certainly doesn’t hurt to have the physique and body type that is of designers’ dreams, but whether in a post-game interview, on the cover of GQ, or walking around town delivering flowers on an injured foot, Brady exudes style. It’s almost like he tries, but knows he doesn’t need to try. There is an Italian saying known as sprezzatura, which essentially states that the confidence or nonchalance that one displays masks the effort it took to put work into something, therefore making that work look effortless itself.

That’s what I think of when I see Tom Brady.

George Clooney

st_clooney_narrowweb__300x3470

OK, I know what I said about him above, but he has to be on the list. Immaculate suits, well-cut tuxedoes, his patented open-collar look, three Oceans movie that revived the appeal of men’s warm-climate fashion – Clooney has represented or reintroduced too many iconic styles to not be included. Plus he has a villa on Lake Como – what is more stylish than that?

And remember, Clooney has not only become well-known for his attire, but for other individual features as well. Who can forget his ER days when he seemingly single-handedly brought back into style the Caesar cut. Since that time, his hair styles have made men many times over pray for more salt-and-pepper in their locks.

Andre 3000

asset

I don’t know for sure about this hunch I have – but I get this feeling that, when all is said and done, Andre 3000 (known for his time in Outkast) will be better known as a designer than a musician. Andre’s label, Benjamin Bixby, is inspired from pieces out of the 1930′s, and has recently earned him honors as one of the top new designers in America by GQ.

I guess you could describe his and his label’s style as hip-hop preppy, but you can get a better idea by just glancing at the picture above. A student of older generations, Andre draws on the experience and style of older generations he meets to inspire him in creating looks that transcend the time-gap and meld into modern, popular wear.

Cary Grant

carygrant

Yes, Cary Grant was born in England, but he became a household name in America as a movie star – often named on many lists as the greatest movie star of all time. Grant, for the purposes of this list, is the oldest, the original, and the best. All definitions of style, suave and gentleman should start and end with him. In fact, it has been rumored that Ian Felming’s James Bond was based in part off of Cary Grant.

Again, what a truly incredible example of men’s clothing that could be lifted right off of this photograph and onto the gentleman of 2009 and no one would think twice about it – simply timeless. Notice the subtleties that are evident, but that don’t stand out on their own such as the simple cufflinks, the barely-showing pocket square, one button done on his jacket, etc.

Paul Newman

paul-newman2

Wearing a pair of jeans and a white t-shirt was never a fashion statement until Paul Newman made it one. Always a man who kept things simple in fashion, perhaps the greatest thing we can learn from his style doesn’t have to be about clothes at all. Newman was a man who was comfortable in himself, and truthfully would have preferred just to spend most of his time like he is in the picture above. If a man is not comfortable with himself, it shows. It shows not only in clothes, but in attitude, in outlook and in lifestyle.

If you think of all the movies and appearances Newman ever made, you can probably not think of any one thing that stands out about the way that he looked or what he wore. The famous mustache and fedora in The Sting are about as close as you can get, I bet. Newman was never one to wow you with extravagance, but rather inspire you with simplicity and ease. He is man truly worth emulating.

Style Icons: Gianni Agnelli

In what I hope proves to be the first of many in a series on style icons, I chose to highlight a name that may be unfamiliar to many – the exceptions being if you are Italian, enjoy Eurpoean car history, a fan of Juventus football club, or a student of fashion.

If we were taking the SAT, the analogy would read like this — Gianni Agnelli : Italy :: John Rockefeller : America . A controversial figure who was a leader in not only industry but also innovation. In living up to his controversial persona, there is an interesting quote that says he was directly responsible for making aluminum and factories the materials by which Italy is represented instead of the traditional marble, bronze and paint.

You see, the Agnelli family owned and controlled the Fiat car company which (with all of its holdings) at one point represented over 4% of Italy’s GDP. By comparison, Rockefeller at his height of personal wealth represented just under 2% of American GDP. Agnelli was known for his desire to provide jobs for the people of Italy, as long as they met his rigid, structured standards.

Agnelli, before his death in 2003, was also known for a number of other things including being the owner of the famous Juventus football club, being a man devoted to his family and being a playboy (he allegedly had trysts with Rita Hayworth and Jacqueline Kennedy, although this has never been confirmed).

But in other circles, Agnelli was known as a fashion icon, fashion innovator and clothes savant. Here are two of the more famous pictures of Agnelli:

agnelliagnelli2

Agnelli was famous for not only being one of the most elegant dressers on the planet, but also for adding his quirky subtle details to an otherwise, albeit fabulous, traditional suit.

If you notice on his left wrist in both pictures, his watch sits on top of his shirt cuff. This came to be his trademark as he was famous for saying he didn’t have time to lift up his cuff to take a peek at his watch.

Another detail not pictured here were his ties which he would frequently wear just off-center and a little loose (good image here).

Most of Agnelli’s clothes were made exclusively for him to his exact measurements and specifications, and, rumor has it, his grandson still wears his suits today. They were so elegantly made with such attention paid to detail that they can be worn as classic suits some 30 or 40 years later. And with Agnelli, it was a suit all the time, back when the suit was a man’s uniform and you dared not leave the villa without your coat and tie.

There is something to be said about a man who says he rarely had time to check his watch, yet was so deliberate about his appearance and so conscious of how he looked. As a man of stature, he dressed the part and never would disappoint.

________________________________

Sources: New York Times, Wikipedia, Biographybase.com, NNDB.com